Travels with my History Books

0009 IMG_5019Nicola here, enjoying being back at home after an epic trip to Alaska and Canada. When I travel I do like to read up on the history of the places I'm visiting and to seek out historical sites – museums, old houses, monuments, battlefields, as well as experiencing as much as I can of a place as it is now. So today I'm sharing a bit of a whistle stop travelogue and I hope you enjoy it!

We arrived in Juneau Alaska twenty two hours after setting off from home and gratefully settled Patsy Ann into our beautiful bed and breakfast place. Suitably restored by a long sleep, we went out to explore the city. I guess the first thing that impressed us was the location; it was a gorgeous day and the mountains and the water looked simply stunning. What a beautiful setting the city has as well as a rich history. I thought St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church, built in 1894, was very striking. It has strong connections to both the native Tinglit and the European settlers, so this was my first history stop. Another quirky bit of Juneau history that I loved was the story of Patsy Ann, a bull terrier who came to the town in 1929. Although she was deaf she could tell when the steamships were coming in and would trot down to the docks to meet them, earning her the title of "Official Greeter of Juneau, Alaska!"

0048 IMG_5192From Juneau we travelled up to Skagway on the ferry. Skagway still had something of the rough and ready feel of a frontier town which felt very authentic to the story of the Klondike Gold Rush. The first boatload of prospecters landed there in summer 1897 and by the autumn the town had developed from a row of tents to a place with well-laid-out streets, a number of frame buildings, stores, saloons, gambling houses, dance houses and a population of about 20,000. There were rich stories of lawlessness and profligate behaviour and equally compelling tales of the hardship many prospectors went through on the trail to the gold fields. Some of the old building remain and really conjure the raffish air of the old town. Something I hadn't appreciated though, was that the gold rush was over so quickly; by 1900 it had ended and Skagway was in danger of becoming a ghost town, although the coming of the railroad fortunately gave it a new purpose. We took some photographs in black and white to be in keeping with the historical atmosphere!

Our next stop, via the Alaska Marine Highway, was the city of Wrangell where we were staying for 5 days in the most gorgeous little 0001 IMG_5485 float house in the harbour. As well as giving us the chance to visit the Anan Bear observatory, this stop also took us to the Le Conte Glacier, and the town of Petersburg. We'd never seen bears and the chance to watch them in the wild was amazing. Later in our trip we had the unexpected experience of meeting a bear when we were out on a walk on our own, and fortunately we remembered our bear training! We were behind a barrier when we took this photo, by the way, in case anyone thinks we stopped on the path to take a picture!

RosemalingPetersburg was a very interesting place, like so many other settlements it had been a Tinglit fishing camp for hundreds of years before the European settlers arrived, in this case Norwegians who established a sawmill and cannery. Petersburg is known as "Little Norway" and the Scandinavian influence there is still strong. There's a great little museum, the Clausen Memorial Museum, that has traditional costumes on display and there is also a wonderful tradition of "rosemaling" in the town, which is decorative art that originated in Norway in the 18th century. It's so beautiful! There are painted panels on shops and houses and it's very evocative.

Alaska was wonderful and we'd love to return to travel further north and see more of the state. On this 0462 IMG_6965 occasion though, we were heading south, down to British Columbia. In Vancouver I zoomed in on the Roedde House Museum, which is beautifully restored heritage house in the city's West End. Gustav Roedde settled in Vancouver in 1888 and he became the city's first bookbinder. There was a real appetite for culture and information in the growing city and within 5 years, Gustav had been successful enough to commission the architect Francis Rattenbury to build him a very stylish house! This has been restored and preserved to reflect late Victorian family life and it reflects the age in perfect detail. It feels as though you are stepping back in time when you walk through the front door and as always it's the little details of day to day life that are so fascinating – the children's toys and the family photographs drew me into their lives and even the charred wood over the doorway told the story of Christmas 1913 when the Christmas tree with real candles on it caught fire! Luckily the Vancouver fire department was just round the corner and the fire fighters arrived quickly and saved the house.

0428 IMG_7755On to Toronto, then, via The Canadian, and a four day rail trip across Canada which was awesome. My final historical visit of the holiday was to the Fort York Historic Site, Canada's largest collection of original War of 1812 buildings and the 1813 battle site. I'd used the 1812-1814 war as background in one of my early Regency novels and it was so interesting to remind myself of the history and learn more about it. Fort York has a palpable sense of atmosphere which I think you find at a lot of battle sites. It was quite haunting. Even now, sandwiched between the railway and the freeway, it feels as though you're stepping back in time. I particularly loved the re-enactment of raising the flag and the demonstrations of military music, drill, musketry and artillery, all performed by students in uniforms of the Canadian Regiment of Fencible Infantry, the soldiers who garrisoned the fort at the end of the War of 1812.

There were so many brilliant aspects to our holiday, both historical and other, that it left us wanting to return to see more of both the US and Canada. Most notable of all were the wonderful people we met along the way, so friendly and generous and helpful to these travellers! it really was a trip of a lifetime and I hope you have enjoyed a peek into some of the historical highlights!

 

110 thoughts on “Travels with my History Books”

  1. Thank you for this virtual tour. I’ve never been to Alaska. And not truly to Canada (althogh I saw Niagra Falls and the Whirpool from the Canadian side and passed through Toronto airport twice).
    So glad you took us along.

    Reply
  2. Thank you for this virtual tour. I’ve never been to Alaska. And not truly to Canada (althogh I saw Niagra Falls and the Whirpool from the Canadian side and passed through Toronto airport twice).
    So glad you took us along.

    Reply
  3. Thank you for this virtual tour. I’ve never been to Alaska. And not truly to Canada (althogh I saw Niagra Falls and the Whirpool from the Canadian side and passed through Toronto airport twice).
    So glad you took us along.

    Reply
  4. Thank you for this virtual tour. I’ve never been to Alaska. And not truly to Canada (althogh I saw Niagra Falls and the Whirpool from the Canadian side and passed through Toronto airport twice).
    So glad you took us along.

    Reply
  5. Thank you for this virtual tour. I’ve never been to Alaska. And not truly to Canada (althogh I saw Niagra Falls and the Whirpool from the Canadian side and passed through Toronto airport twice).
    So glad you took us along.

    Reply
  6. Thanks, Sue! We didn’t get to Niagara Falls although we did see the spray from the top of the CN Tower in Toronto, which was awesome!

    Reply
  7. Thanks, Sue! We didn’t get to Niagara Falls although we did see the spray from the top of the CN Tower in Toronto, which was awesome!

    Reply
  8. Thanks, Sue! We didn’t get to Niagara Falls although we did see the spray from the top of the CN Tower in Toronto, which was awesome!

    Reply
  9. Thanks, Sue! We didn’t get to Niagara Falls although we did see the spray from the top of the CN Tower in Toronto, which was awesome!

    Reply
  10. Thanks, Sue! We didn’t get to Niagara Falls although we did see the spray from the top of the CN Tower in Toronto, which was awesome!

    Reply
  11. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us, Nicola. My husband and I would love to take a train across Canada…and make a few stops along the way.

    Reply
  12. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us, Nicola. My husband and I would love to take a train across Canada…and make a few stops along the way.

    Reply
  13. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us, Nicola. My husband and I would love to take a train across Canada…and make a few stops along the way.

    Reply
  14. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us, Nicola. My husband and I would love to take a train across Canada…and make a few stops along the way.

    Reply
  15. Thanks so much for sharing your travels with us, Nicola. My husband and I would love to take a train across Canada…and make a few stops along the way.

    Reply
  16. You should have popped over to Vancouver Island while you were here. 🙂 Victoria has some incredible historical houses and even a couple of castles! I’m a bit further up Island from Victoria in Nanaimo. You could have visited our Bastion. 🙂 When we came to Canada in 1967, we took the train from Montreal to Vancouver. Probably a similar trip but going the other way. It was 4 days also. I kept asking the age old question “Are we there yet?” But in my defense, I was 4 years old and when I asked what was outside the window the answer would be, Canada!” and before we flew out of Heathrow they told me we were going to Canada. We never imagined the country could be so big! It only took us one day to go from Cornwall to Scotland after all! 🙂

    Reply
  17. You should have popped over to Vancouver Island while you were here. 🙂 Victoria has some incredible historical houses and even a couple of castles! I’m a bit further up Island from Victoria in Nanaimo. You could have visited our Bastion. 🙂 When we came to Canada in 1967, we took the train from Montreal to Vancouver. Probably a similar trip but going the other way. It was 4 days also. I kept asking the age old question “Are we there yet?” But in my defense, I was 4 years old and when I asked what was outside the window the answer would be, Canada!” and before we flew out of Heathrow they told me we were going to Canada. We never imagined the country could be so big! It only took us one day to go from Cornwall to Scotland after all! 🙂

    Reply
  18. You should have popped over to Vancouver Island while you were here. 🙂 Victoria has some incredible historical houses and even a couple of castles! I’m a bit further up Island from Victoria in Nanaimo. You could have visited our Bastion. 🙂 When we came to Canada in 1967, we took the train from Montreal to Vancouver. Probably a similar trip but going the other way. It was 4 days also. I kept asking the age old question “Are we there yet?” But in my defense, I was 4 years old and when I asked what was outside the window the answer would be, Canada!” and before we flew out of Heathrow they told me we were going to Canada. We never imagined the country could be so big! It only took us one day to go from Cornwall to Scotland after all! 🙂

    Reply
  19. You should have popped over to Vancouver Island while you were here. 🙂 Victoria has some incredible historical houses and even a couple of castles! I’m a bit further up Island from Victoria in Nanaimo. You could have visited our Bastion. 🙂 When we came to Canada in 1967, we took the train from Montreal to Vancouver. Probably a similar trip but going the other way. It was 4 days also. I kept asking the age old question “Are we there yet?” But in my defense, I was 4 years old and when I asked what was outside the window the answer would be, Canada!” and before we flew out of Heathrow they told me we were going to Canada. We never imagined the country could be so big! It only took us one day to go from Cornwall to Scotland after all! 🙂

    Reply
  20. You should have popped over to Vancouver Island while you were here. 🙂 Victoria has some incredible historical houses and even a couple of castles! I’m a bit further up Island from Victoria in Nanaimo. You could have visited our Bastion. 🙂 When we came to Canada in 1967, we took the train from Montreal to Vancouver. Probably a similar trip but going the other way. It was 4 days also. I kept asking the age old question “Are we there yet?” But in my defense, I was 4 years old and when I asked what was outside the window the answer would be, Canada!” and before we flew out of Heathrow they told me we were going to Canada. We never imagined the country could be so big! It only took us one day to go from Cornwall to Scotland after all! 🙂

    Reply
  21. It was a really great experience, Kareni. Highly recommended as long as you aren’t on a tight schedule! We loved seeing the very different landscapes and towns. It was completely fascinating and I hope you get the chance to do it!

    Reply
  22. It was a really great experience, Kareni. Highly recommended as long as you aren’t on a tight schedule! We loved seeing the very different landscapes and towns. It was completely fascinating and I hope you get the chance to do it!

    Reply
  23. It was a really great experience, Kareni. Highly recommended as long as you aren’t on a tight schedule! We loved seeing the very different landscapes and towns. It was completely fascinating and I hope you get the chance to do it!

    Reply
  24. It was a really great experience, Kareni. Highly recommended as long as you aren’t on a tight schedule! We loved seeing the very different landscapes and towns. It was completely fascinating and I hope you get the chance to do it!

    Reply
  25. It was a really great experience, Kareni. Highly recommended as long as you aren’t on a tight schedule! We loved seeing the very different landscapes and towns. It was completely fascinating and I hope you get the chance to do it!

    Reply
  26. Hi Karen! We did visit Vancouver Island but we were up in Port Hardy so we need to go back to see the rest of the island! Yes, the scale of the country is enormous and it’s so interesting to get a sense of that by rail. Like you, I was thinking when I was on the train that in the UK the only sleeper train journeys you can do in the UK are to Cornwall or Scotland and they don’t even need to be overnight!

    Reply
  27. Hi Karen! We did visit Vancouver Island but we were up in Port Hardy so we need to go back to see the rest of the island! Yes, the scale of the country is enormous and it’s so interesting to get a sense of that by rail. Like you, I was thinking when I was on the train that in the UK the only sleeper train journeys you can do in the UK are to Cornwall or Scotland and they don’t even need to be overnight!

    Reply
  28. Hi Karen! We did visit Vancouver Island but we were up in Port Hardy so we need to go back to see the rest of the island! Yes, the scale of the country is enormous and it’s so interesting to get a sense of that by rail. Like you, I was thinking when I was on the train that in the UK the only sleeper train journeys you can do in the UK are to Cornwall or Scotland and they don’t even need to be overnight!

    Reply
  29. Hi Karen! We did visit Vancouver Island but we were up in Port Hardy so we need to go back to see the rest of the island! Yes, the scale of the country is enormous and it’s so interesting to get a sense of that by rail. Like you, I was thinking when I was on the train that in the UK the only sleeper train journeys you can do in the UK are to Cornwall or Scotland and they don’t even need to be overnight!

    Reply
  30. Hi Karen! We did visit Vancouver Island but we were up in Port Hardy so we need to go back to see the rest of the island! Yes, the scale of the country is enormous and it’s so interesting to get a sense of that by rail. Like you, I was thinking when I was on the train that in the UK the only sleeper train journeys you can do in the UK are to Cornwall or Scotland and they don’t even need to be overnight!

    Reply
  31. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your pictures are beautiful. It is so interesting to know about the Norwegian influence in Alaska. It makes me want to visit Alaska. I would also love see Canada by train.

    Reply
  32. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your pictures are beautiful. It is so interesting to know about the Norwegian influence in Alaska. It makes me want to visit Alaska. I would also love see Canada by train.

    Reply
  33. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your pictures are beautiful. It is so interesting to know about the Norwegian influence in Alaska. It makes me want to visit Alaska. I would also love see Canada by train.

    Reply
  34. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your pictures are beautiful. It is so interesting to know about the Norwegian influence in Alaska. It makes me want to visit Alaska. I would also love see Canada by train.

    Reply
  35. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your pictures are beautiful. It is so interesting to know about the Norwegian influence in Alaska. It makes me want to visit Alaska. I would also love see Canada by train.

    Reply
  36. Hi Nicola
    What a fabulous trip and thank you so much for sharing Alaska is place on my bucket list 🙂 although we were thinking of cruising
    Have fun
    Helen

    Reply
  37. Hi Nicola
    What a fabulous trip and thank you so much for sharing Alaska is place on my bucket list 🙂 although we were thinking of cruising
    Have fun
    Helen

    Reply
  38. Hi Nicola
    What a fabulous trip and thank you so much for sharing Alaska is place on my bucket list 🙂 although we were thinking of cruising
    Have fun
    Helen

    Reply
  39. Hi Nicola
    What a fabulous trip and thank you so much for sharing Alaska is place on my bucket list 🙂 although we were thinking of cruising
    Have fun
    Helen

    Reply
  40. Hi Nicola
    What a fabulous trip and thank you so much for sharing Alaska is place on my bucket list 🙂 although we were thinking of cruising
    Have fun
    Helen

    Reply
  41. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Lovely pictures and wonderful descriptions. You make everything sound wonderful.

    Reply
  42. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Lovely pictures and wonderful descriptions. You make everything sound wonderful.

    Reply
  43. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Lovely pictures and wonderful descriptions. You make everything sound wonderful.

    Reply
  44. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Lovely pictures and wonderful descriptions. You make everything sound wonderful.

    Reply
  45. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Lovely pictures and wonderful descriptions. You make everything sound wonderful.

    Reply
  46. Our trip from Cornwall to Scotland was in a car not much bigger than an old mini with 3 adults and 4 kids! Thank goodness we were not very big kids!

    Reply
  47. Our trip from Cornwall to Scotland was in a car not much bigger than an old mini with 3 adults and 4 kids! Thank goodness we were not very big kids!

    Reply
  48. Our trip from Cornwall to Scotland was in a car not much bigger than an old mini with 3 adults and 4 kids! Thank goodness we were not very big kids!

    Reply
  49. Our trip from Cornwall to Scotland was in a car not much bigger than an old mini with 3 adults and 4 kids! Thank goodness we were not very big kids!

    Reply
  50. Our trip from Cornwall to Scotland was in a car not much bigger than an old mini with 3 adults and 4 kids! Thank goodness we were not very big kids!

    Reply
  51. Thank you, Maryellen. I’m so glad you liked it! I found the Scandinavian history and influence in Alaska very interesting. We stayed with someone who was a Scandinavian descendant of one of the original settlers and she had some fascinating stories to tell of the traditions.

    Reply
  52. Thank you, Maryellen. I’m so glad you liked it! I found the Scandinavian history and influence in Alaska very interesting. We stayed with someone who was a Scandinavian descendant of one of the original settlers and she had some fascinating stories to tell of the traditions.

    Reply
  53. Thank you, Maryellen. I’m so glad you liked it! I found the Scandinavian history and influence in Alaska very interesting. We stayed with someone who was a Scandinavian descendant of one of the original settlers and she had some fascinating stories to tell of the traditions.

    Reply
  54. Thank you, Maryellen. I’m so glad you liked it! I found the Scandinavian history and influence in Alaska very interesting. We stayed with someone who was a Scandinavian descendant of one of the original settlers and she had some fascinating stories to tell of the traditions.

    Reply
  55. Thank you, Maryellen. I’m so glad you liked it! I found the Scandinavian history and influence in Alaska very interesting. We stayed with someone who was a Scandinavian descendant of one of the original settlers and she had some fascinating stories to tell of the traditions.

    Reply
  56. Hi Helen! I think a cruise would be totally fabulous. We did a bit of that via the ferries but the coast is so stunning it would be amazing to sail all around it. I hope you get to do the trip!

    Reply
  57. Hi Helen! I think a cruise would be totally fabulous. We did a bit of that via the ferries but the coast is so stunning it would be amazing to sail all around it. I hope you get to do the trip!

    Reply
  58. Hi Helen! I think a cruise would be totally fabulous. We did a bit of that via the ferries but the coast is so stunning it would be amazing to sail all around it. I hope you get to do the trip!

    Reply
  59. Hi Helen! I think a cruise would be totally fabulous. We did a bit of that via the ferries but the coast is so stunning it would be amazing to sail all around it. I hope you get to do the trip!

    Reply
  60. Hi Helen! I think a cruise would be totally fabulous. We did a bit of that via the ferries but the coast is so stunning it would be amazing to sail all around it. I hope you get to do the trip!

    Reply
  61. Thank you so much, Annette! It was a very photogenic trip and we came back with hundreds of pictures which we’re now trying to cut down for the holiday album!

    Reply
  62. Thank you so much, Annette! It was a very photogenic trip and we came back with hundreds of pictures which we’re now trying to cut down for the holiday album!

    Reply
  63. Thank you so much, Annette! It was a very photogenic trip and we came back with hundreds of pictures which we’re now trying to cut down for the holiday album!

    Reply
  64. Thank you so much, Annette! It was a very photogenic trip and we came back with hundreds of pictures which we’re now trying to cut down for the holiday album!

    Reply
  65. Thank you so much, Annette! It was a very photogenic trip and we came back with hundreds of pictures which we’re now trying to cut down for the holiday album!

    Reply
  66. Thanks so much, Teresa. There were so many different aspects of history to discover! It was one of the things I enjoyed the most.

    Reply
  67. Thanks so much, Teresa. There were so many different aspects of history to discover! It was one of the things I enjoyed the most.

    Reply
  68. Thanks so much, Teresa. There were so many different aspects of history to discover! It was one of the things I enjoyed the most.

    Reply
  69. Thanks so much, Teresa. There were so many different aspects of history to discover! It was one of the things I enjoyed the most.

    Reply
  70. Thanks so much, Teresa. There were so many different aspects of history to discover! It was one of the things I enjoyed the most.

    Reply
  71. OMG, that bear just strolling down the path! I had one day in Juneau while on a cruise ship, and I wish I had time to see more of the historic sights. Alaska is indeed beautiful and worth traveling far to see.

    Reply
  72. OMG, that bear just strolling down the path! I had one day in Juneau while on a cruise ship, and I wish I had time to see more of the historic sights. Alaska is indeed beautiful and worth traveling far to see.

    Reply
  73. OMG, that bear just strolling down the path! I had one day in Juneau while on a cruise ship, and I wish I had time to see more of the historic sights. Alaska is indeed beautiful and worth traveling far to see.

    Reply
  74. OMG, that bear just strolling down the path! I had one day in Juneau while on a cruise ship, and I wish I had time to see more of the historic sights. Alaska is indeed beautiful and worth traveling far to see.

    Reply
  75. OMG, that bear just strolling down the path! I had one day in Juneau while on a cruise ship, and I wish I had time to see more of the historic sights. Alaska is indeed beautiful and worth traveling far to see.

    Reply

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