Andrea here, finishing my Adriatic travelogue with a visit to the Oracle of Delphi, one of the most iconic and important sites of the ancient world. But before I share my experiences, I thought I would give you a brief history of the the site.
Legend has it that the sacred place—which the Greeks believed was the omphalos, the navel or center of the world—was originally dedicated to Gaia and guarded by the serpent Python. However, the god Apollo slew the giant snake and seized the site for himself.
Located on the lower slope of Mount Parnassus, it features a temple complex dedicated to Apollo that was founded between the 11th and 9th centuries BCE—The central figure was the Oracle, known as the Pythia. (The Pythia was a woman chosen from the local population to serve as Apollo’s Voice. At first, tradition called for a young maiden, but later it became custom to choose an older woman.)
By the 8th century BCE, the Oracle of Delphi was renowned throughout the Greek world and beyond, and its divine guidance was sought by individuals, rulers and city-states on both personal and political issues. She issued her prophesies on a very limited number of days, so I imagine there was many machinations—and money changing hands—in to receive a coveted chance to submit a question to the Pythia.
The ritual involved purifying herself in the sacred Kassotis spring and then entering the adyton, or innermost chamber, of the Temple of Apollo and taking a sat on a tripod set over a chasm in the rocks. The Temple priests would then ask her the questions that had been accepted—and paid for—from among the many supplicants. (It’s speculated that vapors rising from below ground contained mind-altering gases, and thus produced the famously cryptic answers from the Pythia.) The priests would then interpret her words . . . (I leave it to you to decide whether her answers were inspired by the divine.)
The Oracle of Delphi powers faded once the Romans conquered the area in 191 BCE. And the last prophesy was issued around 393 CE, after which the Byzantine emperor Theodosius outlawed all pagan rituals.
I was lucky enough to have a glorious day in which to explore the site. It’s set on the lower slope of Mount Parnassus, with the peaks soaring high around the temple complex. The view down into the valley is spectacular. The trek up to the slope must have been daunting for the ancients . . . luckily there is a road that winds up to the base of the grounds. A wide footpath, called the Sacred Way, winds up and up though the ruins, and the different plateaus hold their own places of worship.
The Greeks were also fond of combining spiritual worship with athletic games. At the very top of the site is a small athletic stadium that was used for the Pythian Games, an important celebration over the centuries.
I love visiting historic places, but I have to say, the Oracle of Delphi had a special resonance for me (as did the Acropolis.) There are certain historical places and spots in Nature—not many!—that I’ve found resonate with palpable mystical presence. It’s one of those tingling-at-the-back-of-my-neck sensation that seemed to make me aware of an indefinable connection between the cosmic forces and human consciousness. I don’t know how else to explain the reaction, other than to see I felt the presence of something that reminded me of how all of us are connected to the natural world around us in ways that elude words. (By the by, I placed a coin as homage to the cosmos in the sacred Kassotis spring.)
I’ve never been to Stonehenge, but I imagine the aura there is similar. I’ve also experienced it at Muir Woods, my first visit to an ancient redwood forest. I’m not at all a woo-woo person, but I do think there are forces in the universe we don’t comprehend . . . and it’s kind-of magical when you feel that moment. At least, it is for me! What about you? Have you ever visited a historical site or spot in Nature that made you feel you were in a special mystical place?
(Photos by the author; ancient art courtesy of the British Museum and Wikimedia Commons)
Andrea, another example of how cruises can take us to wonderful places! I’ve visited Muir Woods and the Acropolis but alas, haven’t made it to Delphi. Will some of your characters be visiting there soon???
Yes, cruises really can be such a marvelous way to explore certain regions of the world, making it easier to spend your time exploring, rather expending precious time packing and navigating the headaches of different modes of travel.
I would love to work the Oracle of Delphi into a book. I did recently do a Lady Arianna book set in Greece, which mentioned Oracles and a had a lot of action set on the Acropolis. So need to ponder how to return to Greece for another story . . .never say never!
Andrea, I’m sure you’ll figure out a way!
Are you saying I have a devious mind? (heh, heh, heh . . .)
Mesa verde in southwest Colorado gave me the feeling you’re describing. However Sedona (renowned for its vibes) didn’t have an affect.
Cheryl, I’ve seen photos of Mesa Verde and it looks amazing.
Very interesting about Sedona. We all are probably attuned to certain vibes and not others.
What a fascinating place to visit, Andrea! Thanks for sharing your experiences and photos with us. I’ve never experienced that frisson you described; however, my husband has experienced something similar. Perhaps my day is yet to come….
You never know, Kareni! I hope you do! It’s very cool.
It really was an amazing place. The weather may have had something to do with it. The sky was the sort of deep, clear blue that one rarely experiences, and the light had a special clarity. The views were spectacular, and all in all, it really did feel magical.
Lovely evocative blog, Andrea. I visited Delphi many years ago. The day we arrived it was pouring with rain, but we decided to explore in our raincoats anyway. Almost the minute we entered the site, the rain stopped and the sky cleared up, and to our delight we had the whole place pretty much to ourselves. I didn’t know a lot of the history, though I knew a few stories. I was delighted with the theatre where you could whisper something from the centre and be heard in the highest seats — we tested it. But the thing that really blew me away was that standing on the highest point — near where you took that last photo from — I could look down and see the road where Oedipus drove down and killed his father. (I’d studied the play, Oedipus Rex, you see.) Being a young, silly Australian, and since there was nobody around I let out a long coooeee (traditional call) that echoed brilliantly around the mountain tops and down into the valley. And blow me down if thunder didn’t immediately rumble and the sky darkened as the clouds closed in! Clearly the gods didn’t appreciate it.
I agree with you about the atmosphere there.
Oh, what a wonderful story, Anne! It sends shivers down my spine. Isn’t that view from the top unbelievable? I love imagining you giving your coooeee and it traveling to Mt. Olympus and waking the Gods!
So glad you enjoyed the aura of the spot as much as I did.
It was not a historical place, but a natural one. I was in a redwood forest, so silent and spiritual. Mystical for sure in the deep stillness.
Patricia, I totally agree with you on the redwood forest! I was in awe the moment I stepped into it. Nature really resonates with me in so many ways.
Thanjs for such an interesting and informative post, Andrea. It must bave been quite soecial to visit tgere. I have always loved the greek myths and hustiry, thiugh i have never gotten to Greece.
That mystical feeling you descrbe i had on my furst trip to Israel in 2007 seeing some of the ancient Bibilcal sites come alive for me. To see the actual places i had read about which i was thrilled still exsited in their natural state was amazing. It was as if the stories and people had come to life right then and there! It is something that i will never forget.
We had dinner in a Bedouin tent in the desert surrounded by camels, too. It was incredible and very memorable.
Jane, that sounds like an amazing experience! Talk about goosebumps! Seeing all those sites that are so iconic to human history must have been so special. And how wonderful to have experienced the desert.
I have been to Stonehenge and other prehistoric sites in the U.K. and have felt the ‘aura’ that you refer to. Many people think that it is related to the Ley lines that often connect these sites but hard scientific evidence is hard to find. I believe that dowsers are able to detect the Ley lines so there is some form of energy involved. I also think that this may be a form of vitalism. Main stream science, has dismissed ‘vital forces’ in favour of materialism, but some scientists are beginning to waver, due to the difficulty of explaining consciousness (the ‘hard’ problem of philosophy) in terms of materialism. Yes there are forces that we have yet to comprehend and probably always will be. Might be best to just enjoy and admire these sites!
Thanks for sharing your experiences and for the lovely pictures.
Quantum, it’s so interesting that you felt the aura at Stonehenge and other prehistoric sites. I’ve heard of Ley lines, and it makes sense that there are some magnetic or other type of energy streams—or vital forces—that make certain places special. What made the ancients trek up a very steep mountain and pick that particular place for the Oracle of Delphi. They were likely more attuned to Nature and their surroundings. I like thinking that! And yes, it’s very nice to appreciate sense of being in the presence of vital forces. I look forward to feeling it other places!
So glad you enjoyed the post and the photos.
It looks like an amazing place, and imagine how strongly it must have affected people who visited there when there was an Oracle. The setting reminds me of Machu Pichu(based on photos, I’ve never been there in person!)
It really was amazing, Karin. And you’re right—it must have been awe-inspiring for the ancient to trek up there from the valley and feel they were connecting with Apollo!
I’m sure Machu Pichu has the same special vibe. I’ve never been either, but would love to visit it.