Andrea here, back with the second-half report on my recent trip to England, which focuses on London. I never tire of exploring all the infinitely interesting nooks and crannies of the city, and always find new historical treasures to delight and inspire my stories.
On this particular sojourn, I had a number of specific spots on on my Must-See list. Most of them related to my Wrexford & Sloane mystery for September 2025. (There are “breadcrumbs” sprinkled here that relate to the plot, but I won’t reveal them until next year! See if your sleuthing skills allow to guess some of the elements involved!)
The Royal Institution is always a favorite haunt. As one of the two most prestigious scientific societies in Britain during the Regency, it’s appeared in a number of scenes in my previous books. This time, I was particularly interested in studying the actual laboratory of Michael Faraday, a very important figure in the history of science, which is in the building’s basement along with a number of his actual experimental inventions. (Thanks to Faraday’s insights into the nature of electricity, we have all the motors and generators that power our modern world!)
So I also enjoyed seeing his portrait in the National Portrait Gallery, which is tucked in behind its more famous sibling, the National Gallery. Both museums are fabulous, but I love the the portrait museum because it really brings the people of the Regency (and many other eras) to life.
The Tower of London was another stop. It only had a small link to plot, but as a history aficionado, I felt that I had been remiss in not seeing the complex on earlier visits to London. The Crown Jewels were a fun highlight, but I confess that my other favorite part of the visit was seeing the Tower ravens and the section of the Tower that held the famous Tower menagerie. (Hint, hint.)
Two stately building complexes also drew my attention. Somerset House, with its grand cobbled plaza and imposing architecture was home to the Royal Society, the other legendary scientific society of the Regency. (Founded in the 1600s, it’s probably the most famous scientific society in the world. Its first president was Sir Isaac Newton, and its journal. Philosophical Transactions, has published many important scientific papers over the centuries.
It’s still a leader in science today but at a different venue. However, I was curious as to whether I could get a peek at the original rooms. It took some asking around among the officials who oversee the various institutions now housed in Somerset House, but I finally got to talk with one of the curators at the Courtauld Gallery, who confirmed that they now occupied the Royal Society’s space. But alas, none of the original survived the countless renovations over the years. Still, I was able to walk around outside and picture what the area was like in 1815.
The Bank of England was my second stop, and its grand building, which stretches along Threadneedle Street is little changed from Regency times. It has a fascinating museum on its history—which features really cool information on the development of money! (heh, heh!) It’s no surprise that the historic stock exchanges were located close by, though their building have given way to modern construction. A highlight was seeing a government investment “consol” (ahem, remember that term) issued to Jane Austen, who put her proceeds from writing into an annuity. (Note that she’s identified as “spinster.”)
A smaller specialty museum was also on my list—the National Army Museum in Chelsea, has a fascinating collection of regency era treasures. I was especially interested in seeing the exhibit on General Sir John Moore. He figured prominently in my fictional biography of Lady Hester Stanhope, and I admit that I developed a “historical crush on him. A few of the items on display included the officer’s sash he was wearing when he was killed on the battlefield at Corunna, along with the pocket watch and fobs he had in his pocket. I found it very moving.
Another odd but interesting exhibit was the skeleton of Napoleon’s favorite horse, Marengo! It was featured along with a number of interesting uniforms and artifacts from the Battle of Waterloo. These small, lesser-known museums of London are wonderful and always have unexpected treasures!
But a real highlight of the trip was meeting up with my fabulous author pal, Jenny Haddon, who took me on a tour of the historic Chelsea Physic Garden, the oldest medicinal garden in the world. It was amazing to wander through the grounds, and we then enjoyed a lovely alfresco lunch in its café before wandering back to her Regency-era house and enjoying tea by the fire!
I’m already planning my next visit to London! (I didn’t get a chance to visit Portobello market, which is always great fun, or make the trek down to Greenwich and the Royal Arsenal at Woolwich.)What about you? Have you ever visited London? Do you have some favorite museums or locations there? Please share! I’m always looking to add to my To-Do list.
:the person who is tired of London is tired of life
SO true, John! I was tempted to open with that Samuel Johnson quote! I really do adore London, and always find new places that intrigue and delight me.
What wonderful post, Andrea! My husband the electrical engineer (among other things) was charmed by your visit to Faraday’s lab. I’ve been to both the Chelsea Physic garden (I put it in one of my earliest Signet Regencies, but it’s become much more visitor friends in the years since.) The Army Museum in Chelsea is also amazing, both in content and design, I thought. And I’ve also had the great pleasure of visiting the amazing Jenny Haddon in Chelsea and joining her on one of Regency tours. Thanks for taking me back to London for a few blissful moments!
John would LOVE the Royal Institution. There are a number of Faraday’s models for experimenting with electricity on display, and they are amazing. SUCH a genius . . . and in my upcoming book I reveal what inspired him to take up science. It’s a very cool anecdote.
I’ve visited London twice. The very first place I went (jet-lagged but excited, fresh iff a 25 hour flight) on my first visit 20 years ago was the British Library. Lindisfarne Gospels, Jane Austen’s lap desk, Lenin’s application for a Reader’s Ticket (using a pseudonym).
My favourite though is the V & A. Cast Courts, Giant Bed of Ware, Tipu’s Tiger, and so many other glorious objects.
All great choices! I LOVE the British Library, too! Jane Austen’s lapdesk is very cool as are all the other treasures. And the V&A is a great favorite! That the art of craftsmen like lockmakers and blacksmiths is consideredmuseum-worthy is wonderful. It opens one’s eyes to a broader definition of art, which is great!
Thank you for a wonderful post, Andrea. I’ve not spent much time in London, so it was definitely enjoyable to follow in your footsteps. I have enjoyed a visit to the British Museum and also had the pleasure of seeing the Crown Jewels. And now I’m hungry for a scone with jam and clotted cream!
SO glad you enjoyed accompanying me. As you saw in the first post, I and my fellow Wenches indulged in scones, jam and clotted cream after our busy day. But then again, ANY time is right for scones and clotted cream!
Thanjs fir tge virtual trip to London, Andrea! I wish i coukd have seen the exhibit on Sir John Moore as you definitely piqued my curosity on him in your novel about Lady Hester!
I have been to London numerous times and walked my feet off when I was there. It is by far one of my most favorite places! So much to see and do! The historic architecture alone is worth the trip! But the museums were fabulous. The V&A is priceless and fascinating and took four different visits to see everything! The Wallace collection is a gem and their tea room under the dome was enchanting. Then there was the fascinating Sir John Soane museum with its very quirky but fun collections. The Museum of London is a fascinating place(it even has a cell from the old Newgate prison) and a walk through London History which us really cool(or was when i was there 10 years ago….). Apsley House(Wellington’s home) should definitely be on your list(if you haven’t seen it already. The Imperial War Museum is another place not to be missed. As for Greenwich, oh my! So much to see and do! The Fan Museum is another gem, the Queen’s house, the ship Cutty Sark, the Royal observatory(fascinating and fun and home if Greenwich Mean Time) the magnificent Old Royal Naval College, the Maritine Museum and if it js still there, lunch at the Trafalgar Pub! Walking up and down St James Street where white’s,Brook’s, Boodles and other famed places and shops are. Oh and the Burlington Arcade. I am sure i have left out half a hundred places you must visit…….but if you have nit seen any if these, thus list shoukd keep you busy! I coukd go on and on…but i shall stop here……so many nooks and crannies to explore…….
Jane, all of the places you’ve mentioned are high on my list of London favorites. I’ve been to most every one of them, though the Queen’s House one that I have yet to visit. Apsley house is a particular favorite . . .and I was lucky enough to stay at one of the old-school clubs on St. James’s Square, which was very fun—and a perfect location from which to explore.
Oh Andrea, I am green with envy at you being able to stay at one kf the old clubs on St James’s Sq! What a treat that must have been!
Yes, it was very fun! And such a fabulous location. My room looked out over the Square.
I was recently in London for ten days, visiting my eldest daughter. My younger daughter came with me. I walked my legs off and still didn’t get to see everything I wanted to visit. But I did see the Portrait Gallery and loved it!! Especially the Regency pics.
I did Bletchley Park and the Imperial War Museum. Went to a show in the West End and visited the place I lived as a child before we moved to Ireland. That was a real surprise for me, my girls had organised it without my knowing.
Like you, I’m definitely going back again!!
Oh, what a wonderful trip, Teresa! How thoughtful of your daughters to take you around to such great places. I’ve never been to Bletchley Park, and I’ll bet that was really fascinating. You just have to go back to see ore!
Alas, I have never had the joy of London, nor any place in Britain. But, Andrea, you have made me feel as if I have shared a small bit of the wonderful places. Thank you for the post and the pictures. You are a good friend to share with us.
So glad you enjoyed the brief walk through London with me, Annette. It’s a fascinating and inspiring city. There are always new discoveries to be made and enjoyed. And been able to share my experiences with our Wenchly readers makes traveling even more fun!
I’ve never been to London so I really enjoyed your adventures. It’s on my to do list for 2025. It’s so neat to see the places one has only read about!
You definitely MUST go! It’s a fabulous city, and very walkable, so you can see so much just by wandering through the various neighborhoods.
The enjoyment from your post helped me through a difficult day. Thank you. With family nearby, London is a favorite destination. I hope to visit more museums, but so far my interest in The Bank continues because I found names of ancestors in a few displays.
So glad the post helped brighten the day, Eleanor. The Bank is very fun place to visit. How cool that you have found ancestors mentioned in some of the displays.
I, too, appreciate the travel posts (by everybody). And since Moore was mentioned – In the first Wrexford book, Henning calls him a “bloody idiot” due to the ineptitude of his
retreat – how common was this thinking at the time? [my depth of research comes from
Wikipedia :}] I know Moore has been discussed here before, but I’ve always been late to the party/post.
(I’ll hold off on my trauma of Raven stabbing Wrexford in the leg with that dirty knife.)
Wow, I’m impressed that you have SUCH a good memory. The government tried to paint Moore as responsible for the debacle of the retreat to Corunna, and when I wrote the first W&S, that was the commentary I had read.
But further research showed just the opposite, and Moore is considered to have been a hero in actually managing to save most of his army in a Dunkirk-like evacuation by the British Navy at Corunna. He had told the government from the get-go that their plans would never work, but as a good soldier, he followed orders, only to be proved right.Everything I have since read about him says he was an exemplary person, beloved by his soldiers, admired by his peers for his honor and integrity. So I apologize for disparaging him in the first book. I have tried to make up for it in later books by dropping compliments.
Ha, ha on the stabbing! Wrexford is a hearty fellow, and when he got home, I’m sure McClellan has some special medicinal healing salve to limit the damage!
Thanks for the reply! Seriously. I think I first did my Moore (wikipedia) research from a Carla Kelly kindle book and thought ‘wow, what a tragedy’ as he seemed a great historical figure – then I read Henning’s remark and have been troubled ever since :). So thank you for the extra info.
It is odd, though, that if someone gets stabbed, a mudlark gets a cut foot, etc., I immediately think “this isn’t going to end well.” (I swear I must be influenced by all those death by carriage accidents.)