Seeing the Elephant

Giraffe 3by Mary Jo

On September 8th, late in the evening, I pressed "Send" to email the manuscript of Once a Rebel to my editor. And the next morning we flew to Africa.  I wrote 7K words that last day in order to have a semblance of an ending.  I do not recommend this. <G>

But the safari in Botswana was wonderful.  Nothing like going off the grid when you've just finished a book!  I'd had no particular awareness of Botswana until I read the first No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency books by Alexander McCall Smith.  Born in what is now Zimbabwe, McCall Smith was a law professor at the University of Botswana for many years, and his love and understanding of Southern Africa is profound.



The mysteries are gentle and involve the keen understanding of human nature of Africa 2016 039the protagonist, Mma Precious Ramotswe.  The stories are entertaining, but what made the greatest impact for me was the portrait of a happy and much loved society.  Botswana, once the British protectorate called Bechuanaland, has one of the most stable governments in Africa, and one of the highest average incomes.  The size of France but with only about two million people, mostly from one tribe, it's spacious and beautiful–and a perfect place for a safari.  (I loved watching the giraffes because of their elegant grace and zen-like calm.)

Africa 2016 061We chose Micato for our safari company because of their reputation for taking care of people very, very well, and we were not disappointed.  Under the leadership of a very experienced guide/sheepdog, our journey was smooth as silk, from flying in itty-bitty 10 passenger airplanes to the grandeur of the Royal Livingston hotel on our last days to see Victoria Falls.

Zebra at MoremiWe spent two nights each at three different safari camps, each with its own special character and wildlife specialties.  Since wild animals are most active at dawn and dusk, the usual pattern of a safari day is to be woken at about 5:30 am (bleagh!!!), given a Continental breakfast, then off we'd go on game drives in great big open Land Cruisers to see what we might see.

Warthog 1The drivers have rigorous academic and practical training and are extremely knowledgeable about animals, birds, plants, migration and mating patterns and many other things.  At our first camp, the guide knew that the red lechee deer bachelor herd like to hang out on the airstrip, and he recruited several guests to help clear the strip before our airplane to the next camp could land.  (Warthogs kneel and use their broad snout to excavate for goodies.)

Lion and truckAt the Savuti camp, our guide could have drawn the family tree of all the lions who had lived in the area for the last couple of decades.  He knew the lion sisters, and their young male half brothers who came for a friendly visit, touching noses in greeting.  Very impressive knowledge! 

Note how close the lioness at the right is to a truck.  The animals get very used to the trucks and feel no threat.  This lioness and her sister ambled down the middle of the road and flopped down to relax in the sand.

Savuti sunsetAfter several hours of looking at wildlife, it's back to camp for a substantial brunch/English breakfast, then several hours of lounging or napping through the afternoon.  Tea at 3:30, then off for a second game drive.  The evening drive pauses for the near-sacred ritual of "sundowners"–drinks and snacks as the sun sets.  A South African told us that for him, it was a time to reflect on the day, but the British had instituted the custom because they like to drink. <G>

Dinner about 8:00, and after dark the camps always provide an escort for people returning to their cottages or tents.  More about that later.

Birds, more of themOur camps:

Created by a river that couldn't find its way to the sea, the Okavango Delta is a vast desert oasis of reeds and channels and wildlife. Our first stop was at Xugana (Ku-ga-na) Island in the heart of the delta.   When I asked our South African guide if the channels were dredged so boats could travel through, he said no, that's what hippopotami were for. <G>)

Traveling by boat, we saw elephants bathing, a breeding colony of birds, a Very Large Crocodile basking on the bank, and elephants swimming happily.  Magical!

Baobab treesNext stop was the Savuti Lodge in a very dry and desert-ish area.  To keep the vast numbers of elephants alive until the rainy season arrived, the government had put in watering holes, as we saw a LOT of elephants there, as well as other animals.  Harsh and beautiful, Savuti was memorable, and not only for its lions.  (Baobab trees to the left.)

The last safari camp was in another part of the Okavango Delta, the Khwai River Lodge The other camps had solid cabins, but Khwai used tents.  Multi-elephantsLuxury tents for what Anne Gracie calls "glamping"–that is, glamour camping. <G>  

Besides close views of a lady leopard, there was also the opportunity to take a ride in a mocoro–a traditional hollowed out log boat rather like a canoe.  Except that there is such a demand for mocoros that the government started making fiberglass versions to save trees.  But they looked convincing, and gliding along at water level, poled by young men who had grown up by the river, it was peaceful and lovely.  Though the hippo we visited who was so bad tempered that he was expelled from his herd had an exciting moment or two. <G>
 
TentRemember I mentioned that we were always escorted back to our quarters after dark?  The last night we were heading back to our tent.  I was ahead with a flashlight to unzip the tent when I heard rustling in the grass.  It didn't sound like a large animal, but maybe hyenas or baboons like to scrounge around in the dark, so I went back to our escort and said I'd heard something, not anything big like an elephant but something.

So he went ahead with his flashlight and returned to say, "It's an elephant."  <g>  Directly in front of our tent, maybe four feet from the entrance flap.  Calmly our escort said the best way in was to unzip the end flaps and enter our tent that way.  Since he thought that was safe, I unzipped thLeopard 1e end and we went inside.  The elephant rustled around the tent for at least half an hour, crunching branches and brushing the canvas.  The Mayhem Consultant took a shower, which showed great sang froid given that there was an elephant maybe four feet away. <G>

But the elephant eventually wandered off and all was peaceful.  Just another night on safari!

Happy splashing elephantMary Jo, adding that "seeing the elephant" was a Civil War era expression for seeing something exotic and wonderful, though it comes at a price
. These days the price is only a credit card and jet lag rather than risking life and limb. <G>

160 thoughts on “Seeing the Elephant”

  1. Oh my! What a wonderful thing to have done. It was just like being there with you, your writing and the accompanying pictures are so vivid. Thank you so much for sharing with your readers.

    Reply
  2. Oh my! What a wonderful thing to have done. It was just like being there with you, your writing and the accompanying pictures are so vivid. Thank you so much for sharing with your readers.

    Reply
  3. Oh my! What a wonderful thing to have done. It was just like being there with you, your writing and the accompanying pictures are so vivid. Thank you so much for sharing with your readers.

    Reply
  4. Oh my! What a wonderful thing to have done. It was just like being there with you, your writing and the accompanying pictures are so vivid. Thank you so much for sharing with your readers.

    Reply
  5. Oh my! What a wonderful thing to have done. It was just like being there with you, your writing and the accompanying pictures are so vivid. Thank you so much for sharing with your readers.

    Reply
  6. Think of all the money I saved because you went on the safari. I’m glad you got some non-disastrous excitement. You and the Mayhem Consultant have an abundance of travel magic.

    Reply
  7. Think of all the money I saved because you went on the safari. I’m glad you got some non-disastrous excitement. You and the Mayhem Consultant have an abundance of travel magic.

    Reply
  8. Think of all the money I saved because you went on the safari. I’m glad you got some non-disastrous excitement. You and the Mayhem Consultant have an abundance of travel magic.

    Reply
  9. Think of all the money I saved because you went on the safari. I’m glad you got some non-disastrous excitement. You and the Mayhem Consultant have an abundance of travel magic.

    Reply
  10. Think of all the money I saved because you went on the safari. I’m glad you got some non-disastrous excitement. You and the Mayhem Consultant have an abundance of travel magic.

    Reply
  11. What a wonderful, wonderful trip!!! I loved the photo of the Giraffe as they are one of my favourite animals. Always strike me as very peaceful and easy going.

    Reply
  12. What a wonderful, wonderful trip!!! I loved the photo of the Giraffe as they are one of my favourite animals. Always strike me as very peaceful and easy going.

    Reply
  13. What a wonderful, wonderful trip!!! I loved the photo of the Giraffe as they are one of my favourite animals. Always strike me as very peaceful and easy going.

    Reply
  14. What a wonderful, wonderful trip!!! I loved the photo of the Giraffe as they are one of my favourite animals. Always strike me as very peaceful and easy going.

    Reply
  15. What a wonderful, wonderful trip!!! I loved the photo of the Giraffe as they are one of my favourite animals. Always strike me as very peaceful and easy going.

    Reply
  16. I’ve never had a desire to go on a safari, but I enjoyed this one since I could do it from my desk chair. Lovely pictures – especially the lioness laying in road. I guess that’s the cat lover in me.

    Reply
  17. I’ve never had a desire to go on a safari, but I enjoyed this one since I could do it from my desk chair. Lovely pictures – especially the lioness laying in road. I guess that’s the cat lover in me.

    Reply
  18. I’ve never had a desire to go on a safari, but I enjoyed this one since I could do it from my desk chair. Lovely pictures – especially the lioness laying in road. I guess that’s the cat lover in me.

    Reply
  19. I’ve never had a desire to go on a safari, but I enjoyed this one since I could do it from my desk chair. Lovely pictures – especially the lioness laying in road. I guess that’s the cat lover in me.

    Reply
  20. I’ve never had a desire to go on a safari, but I enjoyed this one since I could do it from my desk chair. Lovely pictures – especially the lioness laying in road. I guess that’s the cat lover in me.

    Reply
  21. Holy Safari Batwoman, you write great novels, but your travelogue is also wonderful. I know that the trip must have been an experience of a lifetime. You have given each of us an armchair view, and I thank you.

    Reply
  22. Holy Safari Batwoman, you write great novels, but your travelogue is also wonderful. I know that the trip must have been an experience of a lifetime. You have given each of us an armchair view, and I thank you.

    Reply
  23. Holy Safari Batwoman, you write great novels, but your travelogue is also wonderful. I know that the trip must have been an experience of a lifetime. You have given each of us an armchair view, and I thank you.

    Reply
  24. Holy Safari Batwoman, you write great novels, but your travelogue is also wonderful. I know that the trip must have been an experience of a lifetime. You have given each of us an armchair view, and I thank you.

    Reply
  25. Holy Safari Batwoman, you write great novels, but your travelogue is also wonderful. I know that the trip must have been an experience of a lifetime. You have given each of us an armchair view, and I thank you.

    Reply
  26. I thoroughly enjoyed your safari. Glad you took us with you.
    Your first picture reminded me of the first vivid nightmare in my memory. I was late 2 or early three, so the memories aren’t very clear but the emotion is still vivid. I probably work up screaming, because my father was there. I described the horrible animal that had scared me so. He held my in his arms (childhood’s greatest safety is parental arms) and explained that the “horrible animal” was a giraffe. I had seen them at the St. Louis
    Zoo that day. They stayed in the Zoo enclosures and ate leaves from the top of trees, NOT little girls. I went back to sleep without more nightmares. But the safety of that moment stays with me.
    And that dream is in such contrast with your talk of giraffe grace that I felt impelled to report it.

    Reply
  27. I thoroughly enjoyed your safari. Glad you took us with you.
    Your first picture reminded me of the first vivid nightmare in my memory. I was late 2 or early three, so the memories aren’t very clear but the emotion is still vivid. I probably work up screaming, because my father was there. I described the horrible animal that had scared me so. He held my in his arms (childhood’s greatest safety is parental arms) and explained that the “horrible animal” was a giraffe. I had seen them at the St. Louis
    Zoo that day. They stayed in the Zoo enclosures and ate leaves from the top of trees, NOT little girls. I went back to sleep without more nightmares. But the safety of that moment stays with me.
    And that dream is in such contrast with your talk of giraffe grace that I felt impelled to report it.

    Reply
  28. I thoroughly enjoyed your safari. Glad you took us with you.
    Your first picture reminded me of the first vivid nightmare in my memory. I was late 2 or early three, so the memories aren’t very clear but the emotion is still vivid. I probably work up screaming, because my father was there. I described the horrible animal that had scared me so. He held my in his arms (childhood’s greatest safety is parental arms) and explained that the “horrible animal” was a giraffe. I had seen them at the St. Louis
    Zoo that day. They stayed in the Zoo enclosures and ate leaves from the top of trees, NOT little girls. I went back to sleep without more nightmares. But the safety of that moment stays with me.
    And that dream is in such contrast with your talk of giraffe grace that I felt impelled to report it.

    Reply
  29. I thoroughly enjoyed your safari. Glad you took us with you.
    Your first picture reminded me of the first vivid nightmare in my memory. I was late 2 or early three, so the memories aren’t very clear but the emotion is still vivid. I probably work up screaming, because my father was there. I described the horrible animal that had scared me so. He held my in his arms (childhood’s greatest safety is parental arms) and explained that the “horrible animal” was a giraffe. I had seen them at the St. Louis
    Zoo that day. They stayed in the Zoo enclosures and ate leaves from the top of trees, NOT little girls. I went back to sleep without more nightmares. But the safety of that moment stays with me.
    And that dream is in such contrast with your talk of giraffe grace that I felt impelled to report it.

    Reply
  30. I thoroughly enjoyed your safari. Glad you took us with you.
    Your first picture reminded me of the first vivid nightmare in my memory. I was late 2 or early three, so the memories aren’t very clear but the emotion is still vivid. I probably work up screaming, because my father was there. I described the horrible animal that had scared me so. He held my in his arms (childhood’s greatest safety is parental arms) and explained that the “horrible animal” was a giraffe. I had seen them at the St. Louis
    Zoo that day. They stayed in the Zoo enclosures and ate leaves from the top of trees, NOT little girls. I went back to sleep without more nightmares. But the safety of that moment stays with me.
    And that dream is in such contrast with your talk of giraffe grace that I felt impelled to report it.

    Reply
  31. Mary Jo, I am so glad you made the trip and survived to share the tale. My only experience in Africa was not pleasant and I decided never to return. I am happy to be in the mountains of Nevada with an occasional bear or mountain lion(not too close) that is enough for me. No animals this year so far. Hugs sigh of relief.
    Love to you all, Dee Hendrickson

    Reply
  32. Mary Jo, I am so glad you made the trip and survived to share the tale. My only experience in Africa was not pleasant and I decided never to return. I am happy to be in the mountains of Nevada with an occasional bear or mountain lion(not too close) that is enough for me. No animals this year so far. Hugs sigh of relief.
    Love to you all, Dee Hendrickson

    Reply
  33. Mary Jo, I am so glad you made the trip and survived to share the tale. My only experience in Africa was not pleasant and I decided never to return. I am happy to be in the mountains of Nevada with an occasional bear or mountain lion(not too close) that is enough for me. No animals this year so far. Hugs sigh of relief.
    Love to you all, Dee Hendrickson

    Reply
  34. Mary Jo, I am so glad you made the trip and survived to share the tale. My only experience in Africa was not pleasant and I decided never to return. I am happy to be in the mountains of Nevada with an occasional bear or mountain lion(not too close) that is enough for me. No animals this year so far. Hugs sigh of relief.
    Love to you all, Dee Hendrickson

    Reply
  35. Mary Jo, I am so glad you made the trip and survived to share the tale. My only experience in Africa was not pleasant and I decided never to return. I am happy to be in the mountains of Nevada with an occasional bear or mountain lion(not too close) that is enough for me. No animals this year so far. Hugs sigh of relief.
    Love to you all, Dee Hendrickson

    Reply
  36. Mary Jo, what a fabulous description of a fabulous trip. A safari is high on my travel To-Do list, and you’ve given added incentive to push it up a few notches.
    Now, I’m looking forward to you figuring out how to work in an elephant and a tent into one of you books! (May the hero have the Mayhem Consultant’s sang froid ?)

    Reply
  37. Mary Jo, what a fabulous description of a fabulous trip. A safari is high on my travel To-Do list, and you’ve given added incentive to push it up a few notches.
    Now, I’m looking forward to you figuring out how to work in an elephant and a tent into one of you books! (May the hero have the Mayhem Consultant’s sang froid ?)

    Reply
  38. Mary Jo, what a fabulous description of a fabulous trip. A safari is high on my travel To-Do list, and you’ve given added incentive to push it up a few notches.
    Now, I’m looking forward to you figuring out how to work in an elephant and a tent into one of you books! (May the hero have the Mayhem Consultant’s sang froid ?)

    Reply
  39. Mary Jo, what a fabulous description of a fabulous trip. A safari is high on my travel To-Do list, and you’ve given added incentive to push it up a few notches.
    Now, I’m looking forward to you figuring out how to work in an elephant and a tent into one of you books! (May the hero have the Mayhem Consultant’s sang froid ?)

    Reply
  40. Mary Jo, what a fabulous description of a fabulous trip. A safari is high on my travel To-Do list, and you’ve given added incentive to push it up a few notches.
    Now, I’m looking forward to you figuring out how to work in an elephant and a tent into one of you books! (May the hero have the Mayhem Consultant’s sang froid ?)

    Reply
  41. Sue, how interesting!! Giraffes are gentle herbivores, but they are very large and very strange, so it’s not surprising that they could freak out a very small child. But you were safe in your father’s arm, which makes it a lovely memory.

    Reply
  42. Sue, how interesting!! Giraffes are gentle herbivores, but they are very large and very strange, so it’s not surprising that they could freak out a very small child. But you were safe in your father’s arm, which makes it a lovely memory.

    Reply
  43. Sue, how interesting!! Giraffes are gentle herbivores, but they are very large and very strange, so it’s not surprising that they could freak out a very small child. But you were safe in your father’s arm, which makes it a lovely memory.

    Reply
  44. Sue, how interesting!! Giraffes are gentle herbivores, but they are very large and very strange, so it’s not surprising that they could freak out a very small child. But you were safe in your father’s arm, which makes it a lovely memory.

    Reply
  45. Sue, how interesting!! Giraffes are gentle herbivores, but they are very large and very strange, so it’s not surprising that they could freak out a very small child. But you were safe in your father’s arm, which makes it a lovely memory.

    Reply
  46. Dee, we’re lucky that all our African experiences have been lovely, but I can see where a bad one would be very off-putting. You live in such a lovely place that there is no need for more travel!

    Reply
  47. Dee, we’re lucky that all our African experiences have been lovely, but I can see where a bad one would be very off-putting. You live in such a lovely place that there is no need for more travel!

    Reply
  48. Dee, we’re lucky that all our African experiences have been lovely, but I can see where a bad one would be very off-putting. You live in such a lovely place that there is no need for more travel!

    Reply
  49. Dee, we’re lucky that all our African experiences have been lovely, but I can see where a bad one would be very off-putting. You live in such a lovely place that there is no need for more travel!

    Reply
  50. Dee, we’re lucky that all our African experiences have been lovely, but I can see where a bad one would be very off-putting. You live in such a lovely place that there is no need for more travel!

    Reply
  51. It sounds like a wonderful trip! Personally, I’d like something a wee bit more substantial than a tent between me and the wildlife, but what an experience! I’d rather be 4 feet from an elephant than have a lion sniffing around my tent! Your descriptions of your travels are always so vivid I feel like I’ve been there too!

    Reply
  52. It sounds like a wonderful trip! Personally, I’d like something a wee bit more substantial than a tent between me and the wildlife, but what an experience! I’d rather be 4 feet from an elephant than have a lion sniffing around my tent! Your descriptions of your travels are always so vivid I feel like I’ve been there too!

    Reply
  53. It sounds like a wonderful trip! Personally, I’d like something a wee bit more substantial than a tent between me and the wildlife, but what an experience! I’d rather be 4 feet from an elephant than have a lion sniffing around my tent! Your descriptions of your travels are always so vivid I feel like I’ve been there too!

    Reply
  54. It sounds like a wonderful trip! Personally, I’d like something a wee bit more substantial than a tent between me and the wildlife, but what an experience! I’d rather be 4 feet from an elephant than have a lion sniffing around my tent! Your descriptions of your travels are always so vivid I feel like I’ve been there too!

    Reply
  55. It sounds like a wonderful trip! Personally, I’d like something a wee bit more substantial than a tent between me and the wildlife, but what an experience! I’d rather be 4 feet from an elephant than have a lion sniffing around my tent! Your descriptions of your travels are always so vivid I feel like I’ve been there too!

    Reply
  56. Sounds like a fabulous trip, Mary Jo. A friend of mine did something similar, and came back from Africa with quite a fear of elephants that came from camping out, and seeing one trample a tree. That potential fired her imagination.

    Reply
  57. Sounds like a fabulous trip, Mary Jo. A friend of mine did something similar, and came back from Africa with quite a fear of elephants that came from camping out, and seeing one trample a tree. That potential fired her imagination.

    Reply
  58. Sounds like a fabulous trip, Mary Jo. A friend of mine did something similar, and came back from Africa with quite a fear of elephants that came from camping out, and seeing one trample a tree. That potential fired her imagination.

    Reply
  59. Sounds like a fabulous trip, Mary Jo. A friend of mine did something similar, and came back from Africa with quite a fear of elephants that came from camping out, and seeing one trample a tree. That potential fired her imagination.

    Reply
  60. Sounds like a fabulous trip, Mary Jo. A friend of mine did something similar, and came back from Africa with quite a fear of elephants that came from camping out, and seeing one trample a tree. That potential fired her imagination.

    Reply
  61. Anne, I was glad to be glamping, not camping *G*, but we were told that elephants are very gentle and non destructive when they wander through camps. But of course they are very capable of taking down trees!

    Reply
  62. Anne, I was glad to be glamping, not camping *G*, but we were told that elephants are very gentle and non destructive when they wander through camps. But of course they are very capable of taking down trees!

    Reply
  63. Anne, I was glad to be glamping, not camping *G*, but we were told that elephants are very gentle and non destructive when they wander through camps. But of course they are very capable of taking down trees!

    Reply
  64. Anne, I was glad to be glamping, not camping *G*, but we were told that elephants are very gentle and non destructive when they wander through camps. But of course they are very capable of taking down trees!

    Reply
  65. Anne, I was glad to be glamping, not camping *G*, but we were told that elephants are very gentle and non destructive when they wander through camps. But of course they are very capable of taking down trees!

    Reply
  66. Karin, there are probably more deluxe safaris, but this one was very, very nice. What we didn’t see was rhinos. They’d been hunted nearly to extinction in Botswana some years ago, and they’re only now being gradually reintroduced as part of the country’s long range conservation policies.
    But we sure saw a lot of elephants!!!

    Reply
  67. Karin, there are probably more deluxe safaris, but this one was very, very nice. What we didn’t see was rhinos. They’d been hunted nearly to extinction in Botswana some years ago, and they’re only now being gradually reintroduced as part of the country’s long range conservation policies.
    But we sure saw a lot of elephants!!!

    Reply
  68. Karin, there are probably more deluxe safaris, but this one was very, very nice. What we didn’t see was rhinos. They’d been hunted nearly to extinction in Botswana some years ago, and they’re only now being gradually reintroduced as part of the country’s long range conservation policies.
    But we sure saw a lot of elephants!!!

    Reply
  69. Karin, there are probably more deluxe safaris, but this one was very, very nice. What we didn’t see was rhinos. They’d been hunted nearly to extinction in Botswana some years ago, and they’re only now being gradually reintroduced as part of the country’s long range conservation policies.
    But we sure saw a lot of elephants!!!

    Reply
  70. Karin, there are probably more deluxe safaris, but this one was very, very nice. What we didn’t see was rhinos. They’d been hunted nearly to extinction in Botswana some years ago, and they’re only now being gradually reintroduced as part of the country’s long range conservation policies.
    But we sure saw a lot of elephants!!!

    Reply
  71. I have such a healthy respect for elephants that I get really really scared of being near them. We have seen huge herds in KNP (Kruger National Park) and read of tourists venturing too close. It was great to read about the trip in more detail.

    Reply
  72. I have such a healthy respect for elephants that I get really really scared of being near them. We have seen huge herds in KNP (Kruger National Park) and read of tourists venturing too close. It was great to read about the trip in more detail.

    Reply
  73. I have such a healthy respect for elephants that I get really really scared of being near them. We have seen huge herds in KNP (Kruger National Park) and read of tourists venturing too close. It was great to read about the trip in more detail.

    Reply
  74. I have such a healthy respect for elephants that I get really really scared of being near them. We have seen huge herds in KNP (Kruger National Park) and read of tourists venturing too close. It was great to read about the trip in more detail.

    Reply
  75. I have such a healthy respect for elephants that I get really really scared of being near them. We have seen huge herds in KNP (Kruger National Park) and read of tourists venturing too close. It was great to read about the trip in more detail.

    Reply

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