Praising Peppercorns!

FC_CID_MJ19_PMSby Mary Jo

I've always been intrigued by spices, so much so that I wrote a blog about them years ago, and liked it so much that years later I posted it again while under deadline. <G>

So naturally I read an article on black pepper when browsing an issue of Cook's Illustrated, a publication of America's Test Kitchen.  Even though I learned a lot about cooking by working my way through recipes in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking when I lived in England, I don't do a lot of cooking these days, but I do like reading about food and food related items. 

Cook's Illustrated does articles on things like how to make the New England cod and potato cakes, or Indian Butter Chicken, or chewy peanut butter cookies, all of which are in the May/June 2019 magazine, but the magazine isn't just recipes.  It's also exploring what works in different dishes, and why. 

 

Along with that, there are short bits about  subjects such as choosing capers  IMG_5250 yogurt with water is a better buttermilk substitute than milk clabbered with lemon juice or vinegar.  And much, much more. Fun!

Naturally I read the article called "Grinding Away on Black Peppercorns."  There was a whole sidebar comparing pre-ground pepper with grinding peppercorns fresh.  Reading it explained why I've never had any use for the ground pepper common on diner tables: It has minimal flavor because volatile oils start to evaporate as soon as the peppercorn is ground, plus there's a gritty texture from the hard bits of pepper; 

IMG_5253I don't think I ever saw a pepper mill when I was growing up, but I discovered them in college and have never been without a pepper mill since.  In restaurants, I get a kick out of those long dramatic mills waiters use when they ask if you want pepper on your pasta or salad or whatever. (My answer is always yes.) Fresh ground pepper adds not just heat, but a brightness of flavor to all kinds of food, and the texture is softer than the pre-ground variety. 

Black pepper originated on the Malabar coast of southwest India and it grows on a vine, which I didn't know until I started research this blog, cultivation spread to other areas of Asia.  Other colors of peppercorn–white, green, red–are essentially the same but processed differently. 

These days, Vietnam is the largest producer.  Black pepper is the most popular spice in the 280px-India_Malabar_Coast_locator_map.svgUS and comprises about 10% of all spice sold in America according to the McCormick spice company, the world's largest and local to me, the headquarters less than five miles away.  I read another article said that black pepper is 20% of the world spice trade. Still popular after all these years!

Peppercorns were used not just for flavoring but also medicines. They were literally worth their weight in gold, so it's not surprising that the search for new spices spurred European exploration of the Far East–Vasco de Gama's voyage around Africa to Indian was in pursuit of pepper.  A good cargo of spices could make a man's fortune, and I read that dockworkers in London had their pockets sewed up so they couldn't steal peppercorns. 

Black_Pepper_(Piper_nigrum)_fruits Photo by  K. Hari KrishnanSeveral years back I read that when the remains of drowned Elizabethan sailors were discovered, they all carried little pouches containing peppercorns.  At the time I wondered if the peppercorns were kept for their value because peppercorns have been used as currency in the past, but in poking around for this blog, I found that pepper was used to improve the edibility of the salted meat that was a staple food on sailing ships.  Though salt was the best means of preservation, it took spices like pepper to make it tasty. This may be the origin of the pairing of "salt and pepper" that persists to this day. 

Is pepper popular in your household?  Do you have some recipes that really need that bite of pepper to be at their best?  Please share! 

Mary Jo, who just about always grinds a bit of fresh pepper into one of her soups before eating

 

115 thoughts on “Praising Peppercorns!”

  1. I live in the American southwest, where chilis get all the spicy love and respect, but I do love what a good grind of pepper does for a dish. In my earlier decades, I thought of pepper as something I stirred into my tomato juice, but on a visit to King Henry’s Kitchen at Hampton Court some years ago, I learned about several types of black pepper that were widely used in Tudor cookery. I tracked them down and have never been without them in my kitchen since.

    Reply
  2. I live in the American southwest, where chilis get all the spicy love and respect, but I do love what a good grind of pepper does for a dish. In my earlier decades, I thought of pepper as something I stirred into my tomato juice, but on a visit to King Henry’s Kitchen at Hampton Court some years ago, I learned about several types of black pepper that were widely used in Tudor cookery. I tracked them down and have never been without them in my kitchen since.

    Reply
  3. I live in the American southwest, where chilis get all the spicy love and respect, but I do love what a good grind of pepper does for a dish. In my earlier decades, I thought of pepper as something I stirred into my tomato juice, but on a visit to King Henry’s Kitchen at Hampton Court some years ago, I learned about several types of black pepper that were widely used in Tudor cookery. I tracked them down and have never been without them in my kitchen since.

    Reply
  4. I live in the American southwest, where chilis get all the spicy love and respect, but I do love what a good grind of pepper does for a dish. In my earlier decades, I thought of pepper as something I stirred into my tomato juice, but on a visit to King Henry’s Kitchen at Hampton Court some years ago, I learned about several types of black pepper that were widely used in Tudor cookery. I tracked them down and have never been without them in my kitchen since.

    Reply
  5. I live in the American southwest, where chilis get all the spicy love and respect, but I do love what a good grind of pepper does for a dish. In my earlier decades, I thought of pepper as something I stirred into my tomato juice, but on a visit to King Henry’s Kitchen at Hampton Court some years ago, I learned about several types of black pepper that were widely used in Tudor cookery. I tracked them down and have never been without them in my kitchen since.

    Reply
  6. I alway use ground pepper. I don’t think I have used preground pepper in 40 years (and perhaps longer).
    I keep the grinder on the stove, but bring it to the table if i think we’ll need it with the meal.
    Other than my personal use of pepper, I didn’t know anything you told us about. So thanks for another great addition to my information poo.

    Reply
  7. I alway use ground pepper. I don’t think I have used preground pepper in 40 years (and perhaps longer).
    I keep the grinder on the stove, but bring it to the table if i think we’ll need it with the meal.
    Other than my personal use of pepper, I didn’t know anything you told us about. So thanks for another great addition to my information poo.

    Reply
  8. I alway use ground pepper. I don’t think I have used preground pepper in 40 years (and perhaps longer).
    I keep the grinder on the stove, but bring it to the table if i think we’ll need it with the meal.
    Other than my personal use of pepper, I didn’t know anything you told us about. So thanks for another great addition to my information poo.

    Reply
  9. I alway use ground pepper. I don’t think I have used preground pepper in 40 years (and perhaps longer).
    I keep the grinder on the stove, but bring it to the table if i think we’ll need it with the meal.
    Other than my personal use of pepper, I didn’t know anything you told us about. So thanks for another great addition to my information poo.

    Reply
  10. I alway use ground pepper. I don’t think I have used preground pepper in 40 years (and perhaps longer).
    I keep the grinder on the stove, but bring it to the table if i think we’ll need it with the meal.
    Other than my personal use of pepper, I didn’t know anything you told us about. So thanks for another great addition to my information poo.

    Reply
  11. And for something really yummy, toast your peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a few minutes before grinding. The scent is heavenly and the toasty taste is wonderful. Mixing in pink and white peppercorns gives a different flavour profile, too.

    Reply
  12. And for something really yummy, toast your peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a few minutes before grinding. The scent is heavenly and the toasty taste is wonderful. Mixing in pink and white peppercorns gives a different flavour profile, too.

    Reply
  13. And for something really yummy, toast your peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a few minutes before grinding. The scent is heavenly and the toasty taste is wonderful. Mixing in pink and white peppercorns gives a different flavour profile, too.

    Reply
  14. And for something really yummy, toast your peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a few minutes before grinding. The scent is heavenly and the toasty taste is wonderful. Mixing in pink and white peppercorns gives a different flavour profile, too.

    Reply
  15. And for something really yummy, toast your peppercorns in a dry frying pan for a few minutes before grinding. The scent is heavenly and the toasty taste is wonderful. Mixing in pink and white peppercorns gives a different flavour profile, too.

    Reply
  16. I use pepper pretty minimally because—and this may sound weird—it hurts the inside of my mouth. This is probably why I dislike chili and “hot” foods in general. I frequently use grains of paradise (love that name!) instead.

    Reply
  17. I use pepper pretty minimally because—and this may sound weird—it hurts the inside of my mouth. This is probably why I dislike chili and “hot” foods in general. I frequently use grains of paradise (love that name!) instead.

    Reply
  18. I use pepper pretty minimally because—and this may sound weird—it hurts the inside of my mouth. This is probably why I dislike chili and “hot” foods in general. I frequently use grains of paradise (love that name!) instead.

    Reply
  19. I use pepper pretty minimally because—and this may sound weird—it hurts the inside of my mouth. This is probably why I dislike chili and “hot” foods in general. I frequently use grains of paradise (love that name!) instead.

    Reply
  20. I use pepper pretty minimally because—and this may sound weird—it hurts the inside of my mouth. This is probably why I dislike chili and “hot” foods in general. I frequently use grains of paradise (love that name!) instead.

    Reply
  21. I’m not a big fan of pepper, but I do grind some on top of melted cheese and tomato topped bread in the summer…yum! Thanks for a fascinating post, Mary Jo!

    Reply
  22. I’m not a big fan of pepper, but I do grind some on top of melted cheese and tomato topped bread in the summer…yum! Thanks for a fascinating post, Mary Jo!

    Reply
  23. I’m not a big fan of pepper, but I do grind some on top of melted cheese and tomato topped bread in the summer…yum! Thanks for a fascinating post, Mary Jo!

    Reply
  24. I’m not a big fan of pepper, but I do grind some on top of melted cheese and tomato topped bread in the summer…yum! Thanks for a fascinating post, Mary Jo!

    Reply
  25. I’m not a big fan of pepper, but I do grind some on top of melted cheese and tomato topped bread in the summer…yum! Thanks for a fascinating post, Mary Jo!

    Reply
  26. Mary M, that is SERIOUSLY cool! I know that pepper was very popular among the moneyed classes in Tudor times, but I don’t know anything about the different types used.
    Chili peppers are a whole ‘nother beast, and as a Northerner, I’m unqualified to discuss them. *G*

    Reply
  27. Mary M, that is SERIOUSLY cool! I know that pepper was very popular among the moneyed classes in Tudor times, but I don’t know anything about the different types used.
    Chili peppers are a whole ‘nother beast, and as a Northerner, I’m unqualified to discuss them. *G*

    Reply
  28. Mary M, that is SERIOUSLY cool! I know that pepper was very popular among the moneyed classes in Tudor times, but I don’t know anything about the different types used.
    Chili peppers are a whole ‘nother beast, and as a Northerner, I’m unqualified to discuss them. *G*

    Reply
  29. Mary M, that is SERIOUSLY cool! I know that pepper was very popular among the moneyed classes in Tudor times, but I don’t know anything about the different types used.
    Chili peppers are a whole ‘nother beast, and as a Northerner, I’m unqualified to discuss them. *G*

    Reply
  30. Mary M, that is SERIOUSLY cool! I know that pepper was very popular among the moneyed classes in Tudor times, but I don’t know anything about the different types used.
    Chili peppers are a whole ‘nother beast, and as a Northerner, I’m unqualified to discuss them. *G*

    Reply
  31. Lil, I don’t think your sensitivity to pepper is weird at all. There are all kinds of sensitivities that usually come done to a few rare genes and they aren’t generally known bu they’re real.
    I ran down grains of paradise several years ago for a German lentil soup recipe, and they are quite lovely, though I had to order them online. Life is about adaptations. *G*

    Reply
  32. Lil, I don’t think your sensitivity to pepper is weird at all. There are all kinds of sensitivities that usually come done to a few rare genes and they aren’t generally known bu they’re real.
    I ran down grains of paradise several years ago for a German lentil soup recipe, and they are quite lovely, though I had to order them online. Life is about adaptations. *G*

    Reply
  33. Lil, I don’t think your sensitivity to pepper is weird at all. There are all kinds of sensitivities that usually come done to a few rare genes and they aren’t generally known bu they’re real.
    I ran down grains of paradise several years ago for a German lentil soup recipe, and they are quite lovely, though I had to order them online. Life is about adaptations. *G*

    Reply
  34. Lil, I don’t think your sensitivity to pepper is weird at all. There are all kinds of sensitivities that usually come done to a few rare genes and they aren’t generally known bu they’re real.
    I ran down grains of paradise several years ago for a German lentil soup recipe, and they are quite lovely, though I had to order them online. Life is about adaptations. *G*

    Reply
  35. Lil, I don’t think your sensitivity to pepper is weird at all. There are all kinds of sensitivities that usually come done to a few rare genes and they aren’t generally known bu they’re real.
    I ran down grains of paradise several years ago for a German lentil soup recipe, and they are quite lovely, though I had to order them online. Life is about adaptations. *G*

    Reply
  36. Good post! I don’t enjoy cooking, but I love Cooks Illustrated and the related PBS series and most cooking shows. I am not a big fan of spicy food and rarely use pepper, except on my eggs, and I can’t figure that one out. My husband is a woodturner and one of his biggest sellers is pepper mills and salt grinders. I have some beautiful ones on display now in the kitchen and dining room, and they will probably hang around for a while until the craft shows start up again. You could say pepper mills have saved my marriage in retirement, they keep him in the shop for most of the day. 😉

    Reply
  37. Good post! I don’t enjoy cooking, but I love Cooks Illustrated and the related PBS series and most cooking shows. I am not a big fan of spicy food and rarely use pepper, except on my eggs, and I can’t figure that one out. My husband is a woodturner and one of his biggest sellers is pepper mills and salt grinders. I have some beautiful ones on display now in the kitchen and dining room, and they will probably hang around for a while until the craft shows start up again. You could say pepper mills have saved my marriage in retirement, they keep him in the shop for most of the day. 😉

    Reply
  38. Good post! I don’t enjoy cooking, but I love Cooks Illustrated and the related PBS series and most cooking shows. I am not a big fan of spicy food and rarely use pepper, except on my eggs, and I can’t figure that one out. My husband is a woodturner and one of his biggest sellers is pepper mills and salt grinders. I have some beautiful ones on display now in the kitchen and dining room, and they will probably hang around for a while until the craft shows start up again. You could say pepper mills have saved my marriage in retirement, they keep him in the shop for most of the day. 😉

    Reply
  39. Good post! I don’t enjoy cooking, but I love Cooks Illustrated and the related PBS series and most cooking shows. I am not a big fan of spicy food and rarely use pepper, except on my eggs, and I can’t figure that one out. My husband is a woodturner and one of his biggest sellers is pepper mills and salt grinders. I have some beautiful ones on display now in the kitchen and dining room, and they will probably hang around for a while until the craft shows start up again. You could say pepper mills have saved my marriage in retirement, they keep him in the shop for most of the day. 😉

    Reply
  40. Good post! I don’t enjoy cooking, but I love Cooks Illustrated and the related PBS series and most cooking shows. I am not a big fan of spicy food and rarely use pepper, except on my eggs, and I can’t figure that one out. My husband is a woodturner and one of his biggest sellers is pepper mills and salt grinders. I have some beautiful ones on display now in the kitchen and dining room, and they will probably hang around for a while until the craft shows start up again. You could say pepper mills have saved my marriage in retirement, they keep him in the shop for most of the day. 😉

    Reply
  41. I always use lots of pepper on fish and in mashed potato to enhance flavor. As a student I developed my empirical ‘survival cooking’ rules. The 20 min rule applies to boiled vegetables when your not sure how long to cook for and ‘quarter by weight’ for sugar when stewing fruit. Following these rules with lots of pepper for flavor helped me survive until rescued by my beautiful wife!

    Reply
  42. I always use lots of pepper on fish and in mashed potato to enhance flavor. As a student I developed my empirical ‘survival cooking’ rules. The 20 min rule applies to boiled vegetables when your not sure how long to cook for and ‘quarter by weight’ for sugar when stewing fruit. Following these rules with lots of pepper for flavor helped me survive until rescued by my beautiful wife!

    Reply
  43. I always use lots of pepper on fish and in mashed potato to enhance flavor. As a student I developed my empirical ‘survival cooking’ rules. The 20 min rule applies to boiled vegetables when your not sure how long to cook for and ‘quarter by weight’ for sugar when stewing fruit. Following these rules with lots of pepper for flavor helped me survive until rescued by my beautiful wife!

    Reply
  44. I always use lots of pepper on fish and in mashed potato to enhance flavor. As a student I developed my empirical ‘survival cooking’ rules. The 20 min rule applies to boiled vegetables when your not sure how long to cook for and ‘quarter by weight’ for sugar when stewing fruit. Following these rules with lots of pepper for flavor helped me survive until rescued by my beautiful wife!

    Reply
  45. I always use lots of pepper on fish and in mashed potato to enhance flavor. As a student I developed my empirical ‘survival cooking’ rules. The 20 min rule applies to boiled vegetables when your not sure how long to cook for and ‘quarter by weight’ for sugar when stewing fruit. Following these rules with lots of pepper for flavor helped me survive until rescued by my beautiful wife!

    Reply
  46. A good while back I read an Elsie Lee Regency novel about the young [of course] widow of an English Nabob who was sent back to England to find a proper husband. The widow had befriended a young relative of the hero, and had taken the young lady down to her late husbands warehouse. The young lady reported that she had learned about several kinds of pepper. I remember tellicherry pepper being mentioned. I just googled it for the spelling and google said it is a size of pepper corn. “Because one should know about these things so the servants or merchants don’t cheat you” the young lady replied when asked about the reason tor the trip.

    Reply
  47. A good while back I read an Elsie Lee Regency novel about the young [of course] widow of an English Nabob who was sent back to England to find a proper husband. The widow had befriended a young relative of the hero, and had taken the young lady down to her late husbands warehouse. The young lady reported that she had learned about several kinds of pepper. I remember tellicherry pepper being mentioned. I just googled it for the spelling and google said it is a size of pepper corn. “Because one should know about these things so the servants or merchants don’t cheat you” the young lady replied when asked about the reason tor the trip.

    Reply
  48. A good while back I read an Elsie Lee Regency novel about the young [of course] widow of an English Nabob who was sent back to England to find a proper husband. The widow had befriended a young relative of the hero, and had taken the young lady down to her late husbands warehouse. The young lady reported that she had learned about several kinds of pepper. I remember tellicherry pepper being mentioned. I just googled it for the spelling and google said it is a size of pepper corn. “Because one should know about these things so the servants or merchants don’t cheat you” the young lady replied when asked about the reason tor the trip.

    Reply
  49. A good while back I read an Elsie Lee Regency novel about the young [of course] widow of an English Nabob who was sent back to England to find a proper husband. The widow had befriended a young relative of the hero, and had taken the young lady down to her late husbands warehouse. The young lady reported that she had learned about several kinds of pepper. I remember tellicherry pepper being mentioned. I just googled it for the spelling and google said it is a size of pepper corn. “Because one should know about these things so the servants or merchants don’t cheat you” the young lady replied when asked about the reason tor the trip.

    Reply
  50. A good while back I read an Elsie Lee Regency novel about the young [of course] widow of an English Nabob who was sent back to England to find a proper husband. The widow had befriended a young relative of the hero, and had taken the young lady down to her late husbands warehouse. The young lady reported that she had learned about several kinds of pepper. I remember tellicherry pepper being mentioned. I just googled it for the spelling and google said it is a size of pepper corn. “Because one should know about these things so the servants or merchants don’t cheat you” the young lady replied when asked about the reason tor the trip.

    Reply
  51. Denise, I’ve read fresh black pepper on eggs increases the food value, so I’m guessing that you have good intuition! LOL about the peppermills saving you marriage. *G* I love the hand turned ones like your husband makes.

    Reply
  52. Denise, I’ve read fresh black pepper on eggs increases the food value, so I’m guessing that you have good intuition! LOL about the peppermills saving you marriage. *G* I love the hand turned ones like your husband makes.

    Reply
  53. Denise, I’ve read fresh black pepper on eggs increases the food value, so I’m guessing that you have good intuition! LOL about the peppermills saving you marriage. *G* I love the hand turned ones like your husband makes.

    Reply
  54. Denise, I’ve read fresh black pepper on eggs increases the food value, so I’m guessing that you have good intuition! LOL about the peppermills saving you marriage. *G* I love the hand turned ones like your husband makes.

    Reply
  55. Denise, I’ve read fresh black pepper on eggs increases the food value, so I’m guessing that you have good intuition! LOL about the peppermills saving you marriage. *G* I love the hand turned ones like your husband makes.

    Reply
  56. Grains of paradise are/is one of the peppers from Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court. Related to ginger and cardamom. Still sold today. There was another whose name I’ve forgotten (though I still have some) that is dried in clusters that look like a mini-cross between a blackberry and a cluster of grapes. (That’s actually how pepper grows.) It’s no wonder my kitchen is cluttered, I can’t resist stuff like this, lol.

    Reply
  57. Grains of paradise are/is one of the peppers from Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court. Related to ginger and cardamom. Still sold today. There was another whose name I’ve forgotten (though I still have some) that is dried in clusters that look like a mini-cross between a blackberry and a cluster of grapes. (That’s actually how pepper grows.) It’s no wonder my kitchen is cluttered, I can’t resist stuff like this, lol.

    Reply
  58. Grains of paradise are/is one of the peppers from Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court. Related to ginger and cardamom. Still sold today. There was another whose name I’ve forgotten (though I still have some) that is dried in clusters that look like a mini-cross between a blackberry and a cluster of grapes. (That’s actually how pepper grows.) It’s no wonder my kitchen is cluttered, I can’t resist stuff like this, lol.

    Reply
  59. Grains of paradise are/is one of the peppers from Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court. Related to ginger and cardamom. Still sold today. There was another whose name I’ve forgotten (though I still have some) that is dried in clusters that look like a mini-cross between a blackberry and a cluster of grapes. (That’s actually how pepper grows.) It’s no wonder my kitchen is cluttered, I can’t resist stuff like this, lol.

    Reply
  60. Grains of paradise are/is one of the peppers from Henry VIII’s kitchen at Hampton Court. Related to ginger and cardamom. Still sold today. There was another whose name I’ve forgotten (though I still have some) that is dried in clusters that look like a mini-cross between a blackberry and a cluster of grapes. (That’s actually how pepper grows.) It’s no wonder my kitchen is cluttered, I can’t resist stuff like this, lol.

    Reply

Leave a Comment