Northern Isles: Shetland

Shetland relief mapby Mary Jo

I've already blogged about the RNA conference in Leeds and our wonderful visit to Orkney. Now it's time for the last chapter of our journey: Shetland, the island group that is the farthest northern reach of the archipelago that is Great Britain. The islands are due west of Norway, and the ties between Norway and Shetland are ancient and deep. Shetland has over 100 islands, about 15 of which are inhabited.

Like Orkney, Shetland was never a Celtic land, and the ancient language was Norn, which influences the present day dialect. Our fine driver/guide, Grant Redfern, said that when he had Norwegian customers, they could understand him, but to his annoyance, he couldn't understand when they spoke in Norwegian. <G>

IMG_3384Shetland is the farthest northern splash of the archipelago that is the British Isles, and Shetland is closer to Bergen, Norway than it is to Edinburgh. Smack dab in the middle of the sea routes from Norway, it was a jumping off place for Viking western explorations.

 

IMG_3495There is a real kinship between Shetland and Norway, and never was that more visible than in WWII, when the "Shetland Bus" was a dangerous connection between the UK and Nazi occupied Norway. It began with fishing boats which went back and forth during the winter–in the summer, the days are too long to make the illicit crossing safe from Nazi aircraft and patrol ships, but winter in the North Atlantic is not for the faint of heart.

Puffins at Sumburgh HeadThe Scalloway Museum honors the Shetland Bus with lists of men and ships and crossings. I was deeply moved by this quote on the wall from Kaptein Arstad, Royal Norwegian Navy, who escaped from Norway to Shetland in his own boat in 1940:

"No one can realise our feelings when we saw the Shetland Islands low on the horizon, islands which were not only the land of freedom but of our kinsmen."

There are a number of similarities to Orkney: Both were Norse, not Celtic, and they shared the Norn language that influenced the present day dialects. (Which are not identical between the two areas, but definitely similar.) There were earls who ruled Orkney and Shetland together, until in the 15th century both areas were pawned to Scotland as a dowry for Margaret of Denmark. Ever since then, they've been considered Scottish territories.

IMG_3467The island groups have other resemblances. Orkney has very few trees, and Shetland has even fewer. Both of them call the largest island in the group the Mainland. Both have populations of 22,000 to 23,000 people, but I found Orkney more developed and accessible. Shetland has a spare, far northern feel, with vast open spaces and a lot of sheep. I mean, sheep everywhere! Any place with grass had sheep. Hence, Shetland wool and the fine sweaters and other garments made from it. <G>

Pat Rice and I and our spouses took the very nice overnight ferry from Orkney to Ponies munchingShetland and were collected the next morning by our driver/guide, Grant Redfern of Shetland Minibus Tours. For the next three days, we took ferry rides to other islands, admired Shetland ponies and rugged, dramatic sea coasts, visited a stony croft house museum, and toured the impressive Iron Age ruins at Jarlshof.  To reach Jarlshof, it's necessary to cross the airport runway. There are a level crossing barriers that stop traffic if a plane is coming or going. <G>

Nearby is a rocky outcropping Sumburgh Head, whose lighthouse is the oldest on Shetland. It's also a breeding colony for seabirds, and we had the pleasure of seeing puffins close up. Colorful as Disney creations, puffins are adorable and don't seem to fear humans. Delightful!

IMG_3438I haven't the time to do full justice to Shetland, so I hope you'll follow some of the links, particularly this one to the famous winter fire festival called Up Helly Aa, where a thousand men march through the streets of the capital, Lerwick, and a number of other towns and village. Our guide, Grant, is a member of one of the marching squads, and it's a commitment and a discipline of years. At the end of the march, a Viking ship is set afire–and then the town parties big time. <G>

 

MJP with Pankhurst PuffinReaching Shetland requires effort, but if you're in that part of the world, it's an effort worth taking! Have you ever been there? Or wanted to go? Or admired the little Shetland ponies? The Shetland mystery series IMG_3490is bringing in visitors, and for good reason!

Mary Jo, with a puffin friend who is honoring the famous British suffragette Emily Pankhurst.  Each year themed puffin figures are decorated, and this year's themes were suffrage and WWII.

 

IMG_3462PS: At the request of the Mayhem Consultant, I'm going to mention the Cake Fridge, Shetland's answer to the 7-11.  <G> Out in the middle of nowhere, there is a chill case with fresh food right by the side of the road.  Payment is by the honor system. 

It's sophisticated–note the that these cupcakes are gluten and dairy free.  Pat Rice and her IT Guy got a tiffin cake and said it was very good. <G>  This is just one of the many interesting things one can find in Shetland!

50 thoughts on “Northern Isles: Shetland”

  1. I have always wanted to go the the Shetlands. When I was 11 or 12, I taught myself to knit, and soon heard of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting. I don’t have their skill, but I admire it, and I’ve always wanter to watch one of the knitters.
    All the other things you’ve mentioned also intrigue me, but the knitting skill rani highest i my own yearnings.

    Reply
  2. I have always wanted to go the the Shetlands. When I was 11 or 12, I taught myself to knit, and soon heard of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting. I don’t have their skill, but I admire it, and I’ve always wanter to watch one of the knitters.
    All the other things you’ve mentioned also intrigue me, but the knitting skill rani highest i my own yearnings.

    Reply
  3. I have always wanted to go the the Shetlands. When I was 11 or 12, I taught myself to knit, and soon heard of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting. I don’t have their skill, but I admire it, and I’ve always wanter to watch one of the knitters.
    All the other things you’ve mentioned also intrigue me, but the knitting skill rani highest i my own yearnings.

    Reply
  4. I have always wanted to go the the Shetlands. When I was 11 or 12, I taught myself to knit, and soon heard of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting. I don’t have their skill, but I admire it, and I’ve always wanter to watch one of the knitters.
    All the other things you’ve mentioned also intrigue me, but the knitting skill rani highest i my own yearnings.

    Reply
  5. I have always wanted to go the the Shetlands. When I was 11 or 12, I taught myself to knit, and soon heard of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting. I don’t have their skill, but I admire it, and I’ve always wanter to watch one of the knitters.
    All the other things you’ve mentioned also intrigue me, but the knitting skill rani highest i my own yearnings.

    Reply
  6. I’ve always wanted to visit Shetland, and the TV series has made my longing even stronger with its gorgeous shots of cliffs and pounding waves and endless stretches of rolling hills and grass. Thanks for the quick visit!!

    Reply
  7. I’ve always wanted to visit Shetland, and the TV series has made my longing even stronger with its gorgeous shots of cliffs and pounding waves and endless stretches of rolling hills and grass. Thanks for the quick visit!!

    Reply
  8. I’ve always wanted to visit Shetland, and the TV series has made my longing even stronger with its gorgeous shots of cliffs and pounding waves and endless stretches of rolling hills and grass. Thanks for the quick visit!!

    Reply
  9. I’ve always wanted to visit Shetland, and the TV series has made my longing even stronger with its gorgeous shots of cliffs and pounding waves and endless stretches of rolling hills and grass. Thanks for the quick visit!!

    Reply
  10. I’ve always wanted to visit Shetland, and the TV series has made my longing even stronger with its gorgeous shots of cliffs and pounding waves and endless stretches of rolling hills and grass. Thanks for the quick visit!!

    Reply
  11. Sue, on our flight out of Shetland on our way to Dublin, we got fogged out and missed our connection, along with an American woman (a retired teacher from the NYC area)who had just spent a week in Shetland in a knitting class, including indulging in amazing local wools. She didn’t want to leave.

    Reply
  12. Sue, on our flight out of Shetland on our way to Dublin, we got fogged out and missed our connection, along with an American woman (a retired teacher from the NYC area)who had just spent a week in Shetland in a knitting class, including indulging in amazing local wools. She didn’t want to leave.

    Reply
  13. Sue, on our flight out of Shetland on our way to Dublin, we got fogged out and missed our connection, along with an American woman (a retired teacher from the NYC area)who had just spent a week in Shetland in a knitting class, including indulging in amazing local wools. She didn’t want to leave.

    Reply
  14. Sue, on our flight out of Shetland on our way to Dublin, we got fogged out and missed our connection, along with an American woman (a retired teacher from the NYC area)who had just spent a week in Shetland in a knitting class, including indulging in amazing local wools. She didn’t want to leave.

    Reply
  15. Sue, on our flight out of Shetland on our way to Dublin, we got fogged out and missed our connection, along with an American woman (a retired teacher from the NYC area)who had just spent a week in Shetland in a knitting class, including indulging in amazing local wools. She didn’t want to leave.

    Reply
  16. Thank you so much for sharing the sights from the Shetland Islands. I have heard of them but confess that I didn’t know where much about them. I just recently started researching my ancestry and not only do I have a strong tie to Scotland but also to the Scandinavian countries. The Shetland ponies are beautiful and they puffins are very cute!

    Reply
  17. Thank you so much for sharing the sights from the Shetland Islands. I have heard of them but confess that I didn’t know where much about them. I just recently started researching my ancestry and not only do I have a strong tie to Scotland but also to the Scandinavian countries. The Shetland ponies are beautiful and they puffins are very cute!

    Reply
  18. Thank you so much for sharing the sights from the Shetland Islands. I have heard of them but confess that I didn’t know where much about them. I just recently started researching my ancestry and not only do I have a strong tie to Scotland but also to the Scandinavian countries. The Shetland ponies are beautiful and they puffins are very cute!

    Reply
  19. Thank you so much for sharing the sights from the Shetland Islands. I have heard of them but confess that I didn’t know where much about them. I just recently started researching my ancestry and not only do I have a strong tie to Scotland but also to the Scandinavian countries. The Shetland ponies are beautiful and they puffins are very cute!

    Reply
  20. Thank you so much for sharing the sights from the Shetland Islands. I have heard of them but confess that I didn’t know where much about them. I just recently started researching my ancestry and not only do I have a strong tie to Scotland but also to the Scandinavian countries. The Shetland ponies are beautiful and they puffins are very cute!

    Reply
  21. Thanks so much for the post. You have made Shetland and Orkney sound like places I would love.
    I would want to hug a pony and a puffin, but the sheep will just have to hug one another.

    Reply
  22. Thanks so much for the post. You have made Shetland and Orkney sound like places I would love.
    I would want to hug a pony and a puffin, but the sheep will just have to hug one another.

    Reply
  23. Thanks so much for the post. You have made Shetland and Orkney sound like places I would love.
    I would want to hug a pony and a puffin, but the sheep will just have to hug one another.

    Reply
  24. Thanks so much for the post. You have made Shetland and Orkney sound like places I would love.
    I would want to hug a pony and a puffin, but the sheep will just have to hug one another.

    Reply
  25. Thanks so much for the post. You have made Shetland and Orkney sound like places I would love.
    I would want to hug a pony and a puffin, but the sheep will just have to hug one another.

    Reply
  26. Mary Jo –
    Thanks so much for the virtual tour of the Shetlands. I loved your word pictures – and actual pix. Sheep everywhere – aka sweaters waiting to be knitted. Puffins within puffing distance. Adorable Shetland ponies. And I really enjoyed learning about the fire festival. WoW!

    Reply
  27. Mary Jo –
    Thanks so much for the virtual tour of the Shetlands. I loved your word pictures – and actual pix. Sheep everywhere – aka sweaters waiting to be knitted. Puffins within puffing distance. Adorable Shetland ponies. And I really enjoyed learning about the fire festival. WoW!

    Reply
  28. Mary Jo –
    Thanks so much for the virtual tour of the Shetlands. I loved your word pictures – and actual pix. Sheep everywhere – aka sweaters waiting to be knitted. Puffins within puffing distance. Adorable Shetland ponies. And I really enjoyed learning about the fire festival. WoW!

    Reply
  29. Mary Jo –
    Thanks so much for the virtual tour of the Shetlands. I loved your word pictures – and actual pix. Sheep everywhere – aka sweaters waiting to be knitted. Puffins within puffing distance. Adorable Shetland ponies. And I really enjoyed learning about the fire festival. WoW!

    Reply
  30. Mary Jo –
    Thanks so much for the virtual tour of the Shetlands. I loved your word pictures – and actual pix. Sheep everywhere – aka sweaters waiting to be knitted. Puffins within puffing distance. Adorable Shetland ponies. And I really enjoyed learning about the fire festival. WoW!

    Reply

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