Nicola here. A couple of weeks ago I visited Portland, one of the most wild and remote parts of the UK. It lies off the south coast of the county of Dorset, opposite the famous seaside town of Weymouth and is a “tied island” connected to the mainland by a causeway. Back in the 18th and 19th centuries though the best way to approach was by boat and even that was very dangerous with the tides, currents, and lurking rock shoals that surround the island.
The day we arrived was extremely stormy with the sea lashing the famous Chesil Beach and it was easy to see how isolated you might feel in the depths of a Regency winter. Despite its remoteness however, Portland has been inhabited since the Stone Age, with the Romans settling there and the first Viking raids in England recorded to have taken place there in 787AD. The castle, built by Henry VIII to guard against French invasion, 
still stands and is open to visit. Once a part of the Portland Naval base and off-limits to the public, it now stands on the rejuvenated harbour.
Portland really came into its own in the 17th century with the opening of the limestone quarries on the island. Sir Christopher Wren used six million tons of the fine white stone to rebuild London after the Great Fire of 1665 including such buildings as the Banqueting House, St Paul’s Cathedral and Buckingham House. The quarrying families such as the Gilberts who owned property on the island grew rich through the stone trade and built themselves very nice houses such as "Queen Anne's House" in the village of Fortuneswell.
One of the Gilbert family was also the architect of the church of St George, built to a stunning Georgian design with box pews, each with their own door and latch, and three galleries. The lives of the inhabitants of this wild island are recorded on the tombstones of the churchyard. Sailors, fishermen and pirates have their graves here, as do prisoners from the nearby gaol. Shipwrecks were so common that only the ladies and officers tended to be buried in the churchyards; everyone else was buried on the beach where their bodies were found. Plunder of the wrecks was also common.
At St George's a very unusual memorial to Mary Way and William Lano notes that they were murdered by a press gang in 1803. This event was known as the Easton Massacre where a crew of a Navy vessel illegally tried to press male members of the town into naval service. When the townspeople opposed them, the ship's captain fired on them and killed three people, injuring Mary Way who also later died of her wounds. Four of the ships officers were tried for murder but acquitted. The wording of the memorial, however, leaves no room for misunderstanding; this was murder and was recorded as such.
There were other casualties of the wild weather over the years as well, including a lighthouse keeper who was struck by lightning on Chesil Beach in 1858 and a man whose house fell down on top of him in the Great Storm of 1824.
A number of the gravestones have the skull and crossbones depicted on them, not as might be imagined at first 
glance, because they are pirates’ graves but because from the 17th century this symbol was used to denote mortality. Pirates borrowed the symbol because they liked the way that it struck the fear of death into people. However, once the pirates started to use it the Church decided it was no longer appropriate for burials and it was phased out in the later 18th century!
Whilst Portland may have been remote and lawless, across the bay was a very different place, the popular Georgian seaside resort of Weymouth. With its sheltered bay and golden sands, Weymouth was the ideal centre for a spot of sea bathing. By the mid 18th century there were wooden bathing houses on the bay and in 1773 Stacie’s Hotel and assembly rooms opened. The photo shows a Georgian bathing machine that still stands on the sea front.
As part of the plan to popularise the resort, the roads were paved and improved, watchmen patrolled the 
streets and kept the peace. The first guidebook was produced in 1782 by the postmistress, Mrs Delamotte, and the famous Harvey’s Improved Guide followed in 1800. These listed all the entertainments on offer as well as the hotels and lodging houses, many of which are still standing today, including the elegant red brick of the Royal Hotel.
It was in 1789 that King George III first came to Weymouth to recuperate from a bout of illness and he liked the town so much that he continued to visit until 1805. The royal seal of approval brought even more rich and influential visitors flocking to the seaside town.
Wild beaches or the delights of sea-bathing? If you were visiting Dorset in the Regency period would you have preferred mingling with the pirates on Portland or high society in Weymouth?
If I have to choose one or the other, I think I’ll mingle with the high society of Weymouth – as if they would let me (smile). Although pirates are often romanticized in fiction, I think, in reality, they would have been way too rough a crowd for me.
What a wonderful post! In my younger days I saw a lot of Europe, but I have always regretted that I never made it to the British Isles. Now, even if I could afford it, my poor old authritic hips and knees would suck the joy right out of touring a place like Portland or Weymouth.
So thank you for the lovely tour.
If I have to choose one or the other, I think I’ll mingle with the high society of Weymouth – as if they would let me (smile). Although pirates are often romanticized in fiction, I think, in reality, they would have been way too rough a crowd for me.
What a wonderful post! In my younger days I saw a lot of Europe, but I have always regretted that I never made it to the British Isles. Now, even if I could afford it, my poor old authritic hips and knees would suck the joy right out of touring a place like Portland or Weymouth.
So thank you for the lovely tour.
If I have to choose one or the other, I think I’ll mingle with the high society of Weymouth – as if they would let me (smile). Although pirates are often romanticized in fiction, I think, in reality, they would have been way too rough a crowd for me.
What a wonderful post! In my younger days I saw a lot of Europe, but I have always regretted that I never made it to the British Isles. Now, even if I could afford it, my poor old authritic hips and knees would suck the joy right out of touring a place like Portland or Weymouth.
So thank you for the lovely tour.
If I have to choose one or the other, I think I’ll mingle with the high society of Weymouth – as if they would let me (smile). Although pirates are often romanticized in fiction, I think, in reality, they would have been way too rough a crowd for me.
What a wonderful post! In my younger days I saw a lot of Europe, but I have always regretted that I never made it to the British Isles. Now, even if I could afford it, my poor old authritic hips and knees would suck the joy right out of touring a place like Portland or Weymouth.
So thank you for the lovely tour.
If I have to choose one or the other, I think I’ll mingle with the high society of Weymouth – as if they would let me (smile). Although pirates are often romanticized in fiction, I think, in reality, they would have been way too rough a crowd for me.
What a wonderful post! In my younger days I saw a lot of Europe, but I have always regretted that I never made it to the British Isles. Now, even if I could afford it, my poor old authritic hips and knees would suck the joy right out of touring a place like Portland or Weymouth.
So thank you for the lovely tour.
In theory I prefer the wild beaches to sea bathing. Not that interested in high society or assembly rooms. However the roaring sea and I are old friends. On the other hand, I’m married to a police officer so hanging out with the pirates might have a downside. LOL Knowing my penchant for working relatives, my ancestors would have been the one serving wine to the high society denizens. 🙂
In theory I prefer the wild beaches to sea bathing. Not that interested in high society or assembly rooms. However the roaring sea and I are old friends. On the other hand, I’m married to a police officer so hanging out with the pirates might have a downside. LOL Knowing my penchant for working relatives, my ancestors would have been the one serving wine to the high society denizens. 🙂
In theory I prefer the wild beaches to sea bathing. Not that interested in high society or assembly rooms. However the roaring sea and I are old friends. On the other hand, I’m married to a police officer so hanging out with the pirates might have a downside. LOL Knowing my penchant for working relatives, my ancestors would have been the one serving wine to the high society denizens. 🙂
In theory I prefer the wild beaches to sea bathing. Not that interested in high society or assembly rooms. However the roaring sea and I are old friends. On the other hand, I’m married to a police officer so hanging out with the pirates might have a downside. LOL Knowing my penchant for working relatives, my ancestors would have been the one serving wine to the high society denizens. 🙂
In theory I prefer the wild beaches to sea bathing. Not that interested in high society or assembly rooms. However the roaring sea and I are old friends. On the other hand, I’m married to a police officer so hanging out with the pirates might have a downside. LOL Knowing my penchant for working relatives, my ancestors would have been the one serving wine to the high society denizens. 🙂
Thank you, Mary! I think it would have been great fun strolling along the promenade and watching the famous members of Georgian society going by!
Thank you, Mary! I think it would have been great fun strolling along the promenade and watching the famous members of Georgian society going by!
Thank you, Mary! I think it would have been great fun strolling along the promenade and watching the famous members of Georgian society going by!
Thank you, Mary! I think it would have been great fun strolling along the promenade and watching the famous members of Georgian society going by!
Thank you, Mary! I think it would have been great fun strolling along the promenade and watching the famous members of Georgian society going by!
LOL, Stephanie! You would have to go undercover with the pirates! Those wild beaches are well worth seeing too.
LOL, Stephanie! You would have to go undercover with the pirates! Those wild beaches are well worth seeing too.
LOL, Stephanie! You would have to go undercover with the pirates! Those wild beaches are well worth seeing too.
LOL, Stephanie! You would have to go undercover with the pirates! Those wild beaches are well worth seeing too.
LOL, Stephanie! You would have to go undercover with the pirates! Those wild beaches are well worth seeing too.
What a fascinating place, Nicola! I’m sure it felt like the end of the world when cut off by wild weather in the pre-causeway days.
What a fascinating place, Nicola! I’m sure it felt like the end of the world when cut off by wild weather in the pre-causeway days.
What a fascinating place, Nicola! I’m sure it felt like the end of the world when cut off by wild weather in the pre-causeway days.
What a fascinating place, Nicola! I’m sure it felt like the end of the world when cut off by wild weather in the pre-causeway days.
What a fascinating place, Nicola! I’m sure it felt like the end of the world when cut off by wild weather in the pre-causeway days.
I do love wild seashores, but I’m not sure about the company in Portland…so I may have just stuck to the peaceful golden sands of Weymouth.
I do love wild seashores, but I’m not sure about the company in Portland…so I may have just stuck to the peaceful golden sands of Weymouth.
I do love wild seashores, but I’m not sure about the company in Portland…so I may have just stuck to the peaceful golden sands of Weymouth.
I do love wild seashores, but I’m not sure about the company in Portland…so I may have just stuck to the peaceful golden sands of Weymouth.
I do love wild seashores, but I’m not sure about the company in Portland…so I may have just stuck to the peaceful golden sands of Weymouth.
I’d be a Weymouth visitor because I cannot imagine doing sightseeing in a day gown and just a spencer. I find myself huddling in my modern coat with a knit cap and an infiniti scarf during these windy early spring days.
I’d be a Weymouth visitor because I cannot imagine doing sightseeing in a day gown and just a spencer. I find myself huddling in my modern coat with a knit cap and an infiniti scarf during these windy early spring days.
I’d be a Weymouth visitor because I cannot imagine doing sightseeing in a day gown and just a spencer. I find myself huddling in my modern coat with a knit cap and an infiniti scarf during these windy early spring days.
I’d be a Weymouth visitor because I cannot imagine doing sightseeing in a day gown and just a spencer. I find myself huddling in my modern coat with a knit cap and an infiniti scarf during these windy early spring days.
I’d be a Weymouth visitor because I cannot imagine doing sightseeing in a day gown and just a spencer. I find myself huddling in my modern coat with a knit cap and an infiniti scarf during these windy early spring days.
Yes, I think it must have felt very remote. And yet just across the bay was Weymouth! Such an interesting contrast.
Yes, I think it must have felt very remote. And yet just across the bay was Weymouth! Such an interesting contrast.
Yes, I think it must have felt very remote. And yet just across the bay was Weymouth! Such an interesting contrast.
Yes, I think it must have felt very remote. And yet just across the bay was Weymouth! Such an interesting contrast.
Yes, I think it must have felt very remote. And yet just across the bay was Weymouth! Such an interesting contrast.
LOL, Karin! Yes, I think Portland was the rough side of town!
LOL, Karin! Yes, I think Portland was the rough side of town!
LOL, Karin! Yes, I think Portland was the rough side of town!
LOL, Karin! Yes, I think Portland was the rough side of town!
LOL, Karin! Yes, I think Portland was the rough side of town!
I must admit it was very chilly when we visited, Shannon! I needed my coat, hat and gloves with the wind blowing off the sea. Perhaps we’re less ahrdy than our ancestors!
I must admit it was very chilly when we visited, Shannon! I needed my coat, hat and gloves with the wind blowing off the sea. Perhaps we’re less ahrdy than our ancestors!
I must admit it was very chilly when we visited, Shannon! I needed my coat, hat and gloves with the wind blowing off the sea. Perhaps we’re less ahrdy than our ancestors!
I must admit it was very chilly when we visited, Shannon! I needed my coat, hat and gloves with the wind blowing off the sea. Perhaps we’re less ahrdy than our ancestors!
I must admit it was very chilly when we visited, Shannon! I needed my coat, hat and gloves with the wind blowing off the sea. Perhaps we’re less ahrdy than our ancestors!
I would prefer to see both. But as another post said, I am no longer physically able to do touring and enjoy it. It sounds as though both Portland and the wild see as well as the golden sands of Weymouth would be wonderful places to visit. Somehow, I don’t think the high society would be quite as exciting as the pirates of Portland.
I would prefer to see both. But as another post said, I am no longer physically able to do touring and enjoy it. It sounds as though both Portland and the wild see as well as the golden sands of Weymouth would be wonderful places to visit. Somehow, I don’t think the high society would be quite as exciting as the pirates of Portland.
I would prefer to see both. But as another post said, I am no longer physically able to do touring and enjoy it. It sounds as though both Portland and the wild see as well as the golden sands of Weymouth would be wonderful places to visit. Somehow, I don’t think the high society would be quite as exciting as the pirates of Portland.
I would prefer to see both. But as another post said, I am no longer physically able to do touring and enjoy it. It sounds as though both Portland and the wild see as well as the golden sands of Weymouth would be wonderful places to visit. Somehow, I don’t think the high society would be quite as exciting as the pirates of Portland.
I would prefer to see both. But as another post said, I am no longer physically able to do touring and enjoy it. It sounds as though both Portland and the wild see as well as the golden sands of Weymouth would be wonderful places to visit. Somehow, I don’t think the high society would be quite as exciting as the pirates of Portland.
I’m glad I can give you a taste of the place, Annette! Yes, I think Weymouth was quite respectable and Portland probably very different, with inns packed with sailors and less desirable sorts!
I’m glad I can give you a taste of the place, Annette! Yes, I think Weymouth was quite respectable and Portland probably very different, with inns packed with sailors and less desirable sorts!
I’m glad I can give you a taste of the place, Annette! Yes, I think Weymouth was quite respectable and Portland probably very different, with inns packed with sailors and less desirable sorts!
I’m glad I can give you a taste of the place, Annette! Yes, I think Weymouth was quite respectable and Portland probably very different, with inns packed with sailors and less desirable sorts!
I’m glad I can give you a taste of the place, Annette! Yes, I think Weymouth was quite respectable and Portland probably very different, with inns packed with sailors and less desirable sorts!
I love the sound of Portland. What a barrow load of history. I quite like the remoteness it offered. I also love the sea. I don’t mean to swim in (I can’t swim) but I love walking on the beach and just standing and listening to the gentle sound of it on a calm day and the roar of it on a wild one (which we’re getting a lot of here in the south of Ireland at the moment) I was walking on the beach this morning. Not as cold as the last few days. I find I do a lot of thinking while walking and listening to the waves.
I do like the thoughts of pirates but I guess only the ones in books or on film who weren’t too violent. There probably weren’t a lot of them around in real life though.
Great post Nicola.
I love the sound of Portland. What a barrow load of history. I quite like the remoteness it offered. I also love the sea. I don’t mean to swim in (I can’t swim) but I love walking on the beach and just standing and listening to the gentle sound of it on a calm day and the roar of it on a wild one (which we’re getting a lot of here in the south of Ireland at the moment) I was walking on the beach this morning. Not as cold as the last few days. I find I do a lot of thinking while walking and listening to the waves.
I do like the thoughts of pirates but I guess only the ones in books or on film who weren’t too violent. There probably weren’t a lot of them around in real life though.
Great post Nicola.
I love the sound of Portland. What a barrow load of history. I quite like the remoteness it offered. I also love the sea. I don’t mean to swim in (I can’t swim) but I love walking on the beach and just standing and listening to the gentle sound of it on a calm day and the roar of it on a wild one (which we’re getting a lot of here in the south of Ireland at the moment) I was walking on the beach this morning. Not as cold as the last few days. I find I do a lot of thinking while walking and listening to the waves.
I do like the thoughts of pirates but I guess only the ones in books or on film who weren’t too violent. There probably weren’t a lot of them around in real life though.
Great post Nicola.
I love the sound of Portland. What a barrow load of history. I quite like the remoteness it offered. I also love the sea. I don’t mean to swim in (I can’t swim) but I love walking on the beach and just standing and listening to the gentle sound of it on a calm day and the roar of it on a wild one (which we’re getting a lot of here in the south of Ireland at the moment) I was walking on the beach this morning. Not as cold as the last few days. I find I do a lot of thinking while walking and listening to the waves.
I do like the thoughts of pirates but I guess only the ones in books or on film who weren’t too violent. There probably weren’t a lot of them around in real life though.
Great post Nicola.
I love the sound of Portland. What a barrow load of history. I quite like the remoteness it offered. I also love the sea. I don’t mean to swim in (I can’t swim) but I love walking on the beach and just standing and listening to the gentle sound of it on a calm day and the roar of it on a wild one (which we’re getting a lot of here in the south of Ireland at the moment) I was walking on the beach this morning. Not as cold as the last few days. I find I do a lot of thinking while walking and listening to the waves.
I do like the thoughts of pirates but I guess only the ones in books or on film who weren’t too violent. There probably weren’t a lot of them around in real life though.
Great post Nicola.
Thank you for that interesting article. I had never heard of the island although I have visited the Channel Islands – I think the ferry left from Weymouth. I shall add it to my list as a ‘must see’ if ever I should return to that part of the world.
Thank you for that interesting article. I had never heard of the island although I have visited the Channel Islands – I think the ferry left from Weymouth. I shall add it to my list as a ‘must see’ if ever I should return to that part of the world.
Thank you for that interesting article. I had never heard of the island although I have visited the Channel Islands – I think the ferry left from Weymouth. I shall add it to my list as a ‘must see’ if ever I should return to that part of the world.
Thank you for that interesting article. I had never heard of the island although I have visited the Channel Islands – I think the ferry left from Weymouth. I shall add it to my list as a ‘must see’ if ever I should return to that part of the world.
Thank you for that interesting article. I had never heard of the island although I have visited the Channel Islands – I think the ferry left from Weymouth. I shall add it to my list as a ‘must see’ if ever I should return to that part of the world.
Thank you for a fascinating ‘tour’ of Portland (and to a lesser degree, Weymouth). I’d love to see both places, although the more civilized attractions of Weymouth might attract me more. Still, there’s a great deal to be said for being isolated during one of those stormy Regency winters, provided there was an attractive gentleman — or pirate — to keep one company. 😉
Thank you for a fascinating ‘tour’ of Portland (and to a lesser degree, Weymouth). I’d love to see both places, although the more civilized attractions of Weymouth might attract me more. Still, there’s a great deal to be said for being isolated during one of those stormy Regency winters, provided there was an attractive gentleman — or pirate — to keep one company. 😉
Thank you for a fascinating ‘tour’ of Portland (and to a lesser degree, Weymouth). I’d love to see both places, although the more civilized attractions of Weymouth might attract me more. Still, there’s a great deal to be said for being isolated during one of those stormy Regency winters, provided there was an attractive gentleman — or pirate — to keep one company. 😉
Thank you for a fascinating ‘tour’ of Portland (and to a lesser degree, Weymouth). I’d love to see both places, although the more civilized attractions of Weymouth might attract me more. Still, there’s a great deal to be said for being isolated during one of those stormy Regency winters, provided there was an attractive gentleman — or pirate — to keep one company. 😉
Thank you for a fascinating ‘tour’ of Portland (and to a lesser degree, Weymouth). I’d love to see both places, although the more civilized attractions of Weymouth might attract me more. Still, there’s a great deal to be said for being isolated during one of those stormy Regency winters, provided there was an attractive gentleman — or pirate — to keep one company. 😉
It’s interesting how much the sound of waves appeals to us, isn’t it, whether it’s a gentle sound or that crashing you get in storms. There is something exhilarating about the power of nature when you see it like that, and something very refreshing about the seaside.
It’s interesting how much the sound of waves appeals to us, isn’t it, whether it’s a gentle sound or that crashing you get in storms. There is something exhilarating about the power of nature when you see it like that, and something very refreshing about the seaside.
It’s interesting how much the sound of waves appeals to us, isn’t it, whether it’s a gentle sound or that crashing you get in storms. There is something exhilarating about the power of nature when you see it like that, and something very refreshing about the seaside.
It’s interesting how much the sound of waves appeals to us, isn’t it, whether it’s a gentle sound or that crashing you get in storms. There is something exhilarating about the power of nature when you see it like that, and something very refreshing about the seaside.
It’s interesting how much the sound of waves appeals to us, isn’t it, whether it’s a gentle sound or that crashing you get in storms. There is something exhilarating about the power of nature when you see it like that, and something very refreshing about the seaside.
I hope you enjoyed the Channel Islands, Jan. I haven’t been for years and would love to revisit. So much amazing history there!
I hope you enjoyed the Channel Islands, Jan. I haven’t been for years and would love to revisit. So much amazing history there!
I hope you enjoyed the Channel Islands, Jan. I haven’t been for years and would love to revisit. So much amazing history there!
I hope you enjoyed the Channel Islands, Jan. I haven’t been for years and would love to revisit. So much amazing history there!
I hope you enjoyed the Channel Islands, Jan. I haven’t been for years and would love to revisit. So much amazing history there!
Ha, yes indeed, Ann! Perhaps the storms would throw a shipwrecked sailor onto the beach in need of rescue… I feel a story coming on!
Ha, yes indeed, Ann! Perhaps the storms would throw a shipwrecked sailor onto the beach in need of rescue… I feel a story coming on!
Ha, yes indeed, Ann! Perhaps the storms would throw a shipwrecked sailor onto the beach in need of rescue… I feel a story coming on!
Ha, yes indeed, Ann! Perhaps the storms would throw a shipwrecked sailor onto the beach in need of rescue… I feel a story coming on!
Ha, yes indeed, Ann! Perhaps the storms would throw a shipwrecked sailor onto the beach in need of rescue… I feel a story coming on!
SUCH a fascinating post, Nicola! I love historic spots by the sea—there’s some added adventure/mystery to them. And this area sounds amazing. Another place to add to the To Be Visited List!
SUCH a fascinating post, Nicola! I love historic spots by the sea—there’s some added adventure/mystery to them. And this area sounds amazing. Another place to add to the To Be Visited List!
SUCH a fascinating post, Nicola! I love historic spots by the sea—there’s some added adventure/mystery to them. And this area sounds amazing. Another place to add to the To Be Visited List!
SUCH a fascinating post, Nicola! I love historic spots by the sea—there’s some added adventure/mystery to them. And this area sounds amazing. Another place to add to the To Be Visited List!
SUCH a fascinating post, Nicola! I love historic spots by the sea—there’s some added adventure/mystery to them. And this area sounds amazing. Another place to add to the To Be Visited List!
I am probably a Weymouth person. Although I am thoroughly American middle class in my upbringing and in my personal life, I MUCH prefer society stories than pirate stories! Stephanie Laurens has a female privateer in the Black Cobra quartet and an entire family of privateers in her newest quartet; unlike history, these privateers stayed honest and loyal. To me that makes her stories fun. Sabatini and his ilk, on the other hand, leave me cold. Criminals are NOT romantic.
I am probably a Weymouth person. Although I am thoroughly American middle class in my upbringing and in my personal life, I MUCH prefer society stories than pirate stories! Stephanie Laurens has a female privateer in the Black Cobra quartet and an entire family of privateers in her newest quartet; unlike history, these privateers stayed honest and loyal. To me that makes her stories fun. Sabatini and his ilk, on the other hand, leave me cold. Criminals are NOT romantic.
I am probably a Weymouth person. Although I am thoroughly American middle class in my upbringing and in my personal life, I MUCH prefer society stories than pirate stories! Stephanie Laurens has a female privateer in the Black Cobra quartet and an entire family of privateers in her newest quartet; unlike history, these privateers stayed honest and loyal. To me that makes her stories fun. Sabatini and his ilk, on the other hand, leave me cold. Criminals are NOT romantic.
I am probably a Weymouth person. Although I am thoroughly American middle class in my upbringing and in my personal life, I MUCH prefer society stories than pirate stories! Stephanie Laurens has a female privateer in the Black Cobra quartet and an entire family of privateers in her newest quartet; unlike history, these privateers stayed honest and loyal. To me that makes her stories fun. Sabatini and his ilk, on the other hand, leave me cold. Criminals are NOT romantic.
I am probably a Weymouth person. Although I am thoroughly American middle class in my upbringing and in my personal life, I MUCH prefer society stories than pirate stories! Stephanie Laurens has a female privateer in the Black Cobra quartet and an entire family of privateers in her newest quartet; unlike history, these privateers stayed honest and loyal. To me that makes her stories fun. Sabatini and his ilk, on the other hand, leave me cold. Criminals are NOT romantic.