Fifty Shades of Black

Ackermann_mouning_eveningdress1817_fullCara/Andrea here, I'm musing today on a dark subject . . . as in black! Now, New York fashionistas would have no problem adhering to the complex rituals of 19th century mourning—wearing black is very stylish and an everyday staple of any modern trendy wardrobe. It’s hip and ultra cool to eschew brighter colors for the shadow-dark hue of midnight. But as we all know, black had a different connotation in in the past.



Mourning 1 Ackermann_mourningdress1819You’re probably all aware of the basic mourning rules, but the current exhibit of Mourning Wear at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (a fabulous show if you have a chance to get to the city—all photos here are ones I took of the clothing on display) got me to revisit the subject. And my research reminded me that Regency rules weren’t nearly so elaborate and strict as those of the Victorian era, where the Queen seemed to inspire a rather ghoulish extreme in honoring the dead.

Mourning 7 Mourning 2The Regency seemed a little more laid back . . . as in a Pirates of the Caribbean parlay, the rules were more like . . . guidelines. For those who couldn’t afford the expense of a black dress—or didn’t feel compelled to buy one—it was perfectly acceptable to take an older gown, undo the stitching, dye it black and then re-sew it. Here’s an excerpt from one of Jane Austen’s letters from 1808:
Belle_assem_moring_dress1818“My Mother is preparing mourning for Mrs E. K. – she has picked her old silk pelisse to pieces, & means to have it dyed black for a gown – a very interesting scheme."

If a dress could not be made or bought, a simple black mourning band or touch of black ribbons was considered proper (though this happened more with the lower classes.) Here’s another quote from a letter Jane wrote to her sister in 1814:
Mourning 3“A grand thought has struck me as to our gowns. This six weeks’ mourning makes so great a difference that I shall not go to Miss Hare till you can come and help choose yourself, unless you particularly wish the contrary. It may be hardly worth while perhaps to have the gowns so expensively made up. We may buy a cap or a veil instead; but we can talk more of this together…Now we are come from church, and all going to write. Almost everybody was in mourning last night, but my brown gown did very well… It makes one moralise upon the ups and downs of this life.”

Mourning 6For our Regency ladies, proper mourning was a year and a day. For “full mourning” (typically the first six months )black crepe was the fabric of choice, along with bombazine silk, which had a matte finish. (Shiny fabrics were off limits.) The only jewelry considered proper was jet, amber, black glass or  block enamel.
Half-mourning-evening-dress-ackermann-1819During “half mourning” subdued colors were permitted.  Those hues included dull grays, lilac and lavender, as well as white, which was a mourning color during Medieval times.  (If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years!) Jewelry made of pearls, coral and amethyst was allowed.

Mourning 5 Mourning 8There are, of course, many more arcane details but this is just a quick primer to go along with the photos of the vintage clothing on display at the museum (some of them really show the fabric and pattern details, which are exquisite.) What strikes me is the variety of wonderful textures, shapes and silhouettes within the confines of the rules—a visu
al reminder that style is always in fashion!

Mourning 9 Mourning 4Now I happen to love black, and wear it quite often, but I would not like it to be the only hue I was permitted to wear. I’d really miss the range of blues, from deep indigo to sea-green to robin’s egg. What color would you miss wearing most if you were required to wear deep mourning?

195 thoughts on “Fifty Shades of Black”

  1. Favourite colours do show in the Wench’s writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I’m with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.

    Reply
  2. Favourite colours do show in the Wench’s writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I’m with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.

    Reply
  3. Favourite colours do show in the Wench’s writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I’m with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.

    Reply
  4. Favourite colours do show in the Wench’s writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I’m with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.

    Reply
  5. Favourite colours do show in the Wench’s writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I’m with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.

    Reply
  6. Oh! I’ve been looking into late Victorian mourning lately – and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress – and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can’t go and see for myself…)
    Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.

    Reply
  7. Oh! I’ve been looking into late Victorian mourning lately – and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress – and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can’t go and see for myself…)
    Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.

    Reply
  8. Oh! I’ve been looking into late Victorian mourning lately – and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress – and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can’t go and see for myself…)
    Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.

    Reply
  9. Oh! I’ve been looking into late Victorian mourning lately – and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress – and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can’t go and see for myself…)
    Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.

    Reply
  10. Oh! I’ve been looking into late Victorian mourning lately – and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress – and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can’t go and see for myself…)
    Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.

    Reply
  11. What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children’s mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour – the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.

    Reply
  12. What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children’s mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour – the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.

    Reply
  13. What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children’s mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour – the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.

    Reply
  14. What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children’s mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour – the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.

    Reply
  15. What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children’s mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour – the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.

    Reply
  16. FRances, that’s a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.

    Reply
  17. FRances, that’s a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.

    Reply
  18. FRances, that’s a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.

    Reply
  19. FRances, that’s a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.

    Reply
  20. FRances, that’s a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.

    Reply
  21. I wear a fair amount of black because it’s easy and doesn’t require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!

    Reply
  22. I wear a fair amount of black because it’s easy and doesn’t require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!

    Reply
  23. I wear a fair amount of black because it’s easy and doesn’t require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!

    Reply
  24. I wear a fair amount of black because it’s easy and doesn’t require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!

    Reply
  25. I wear a fair amount of black because it’s easy and doesn’t require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!

    Reply
  26. I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.

    Reply
  27. I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.

    Reply
  28. I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.

    Reply
  29. I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.

    Reply
  30. I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.

    Reply
  31. Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn’t realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn’t seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.

    Reply
  32. Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn’t realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn’t seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.

    Reply
  33. Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn’t realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn’t seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.

    Reply
  34. Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn’t realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn’t seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.

    Reply
  35. Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn’t realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn’t seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.

    Reply
  36. I’ve often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow’s not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn’t carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there’s Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband’s coffin, and Hamlet’s reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.

    Reply
  37. I’ve often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow’s not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn’t carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there’s Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband’s coffin, and Hamlet’s reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.

    Reply
  38. I’ve often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow’s not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn’t carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there’s Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband’s coffin, and Hamlet’s reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.

    Reply
  39. I’ve often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow’s not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn’t carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there’s Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband’s coffin, and Hamlet’s reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.

    Reply
  40. I’ve often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow’s not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn’t carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there’s Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband’s coffin, and Hamlet’s reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.

    Reply
  41. Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don’t know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it’s a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!

    Reply
  42. Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don’t know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it’s a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!

    Reply
  43. Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don’t know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it’s a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!

    Reply
  44. Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don’t know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it’s a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!

    Reply
  45. Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don’t know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it’s a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!

    Reply
  46. The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I’m glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I’m not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to “my” colors.
    Therefore my instant reaction to this is “thanks to today, I don’t need to worry about this anymore!” I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I’m now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)

    Reply
  47. The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I’m glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I’m not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to “my” colors.
    Therefore my instant reaction to this is “thanks to today, I don’t need to worry about this anymore!” I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I’m now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)

    Reply
  48. The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I’m glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I’m not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to “my” colors.
    Therefore my instant reaction to this is “thanks to today, I don’t need to worry about this anymore!” I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I’m now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)

    Reply
  49. The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I’m glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I’m not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to “my” colors.
    Therefore my instant reaction to this is “thanks to today, I don’t need to worry about this anymore!” I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I’m now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)

    Reply
  50. The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I’m glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I’m not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to “my” colors.
    Therefore my instant reaction to this is “thanks to today, I don’t need to worry about this anymore!” I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I’m now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)

    Reply
  51. I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people’s faces. This seems ever truer as we age.

    Reply
  52. I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people’s faces. This seems ever truer as we age.

    Reply
  53. I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people’s faces. This seems ever truer as we age.

    Reply
  54. I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people’s faces. This seems ever truer as we age.

    Reply
  55. I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people’s faces. This seems ever truer as we age.

    Reply
  56. I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
    Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven’t seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
    Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.

    Reply
  57. I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
    Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven’t seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
    Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.

    Reply
  58. I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
    Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven’t seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
    Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.

    Reply
  59. I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
    Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven’t seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
    Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.

    Reply
  60. I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
    Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven’t seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
    Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.

    Reply
  61. Sue, yes, it’s so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I’m partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
    Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don’t have such constricting rules anymore!

    Reply
  62. Sue, yes, it’s so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I’m partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
    Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don’t have such constricting rules anymore!

    Reply
  63. Sue, yes, it’s so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I’m partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
    Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don’t have such constricting rules anymore!

    Reply
  64. Sue, yes, it’s so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I’m partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
    Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don’t have such constricting rules anymore!

    Reply
  65. Sue, yes, it’s so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I’m partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
    Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don’t have such constricting rules anymore!

    Reply
  66. I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.

    Reply
  67. I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.

    Reply
  68. I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.

    Reply
  69. I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.

    Reply
  70. I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.

    Reply
  71. Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn’t held to those rules—but i didn’t realize they would wear black for the ceremony.

    Reply
  72. Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn’t held to those rules—but i didn’t realize they would wear black for the ceremony.

    Reply
  73. Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn’t held to those rules—but i didn’t realize they would wear black for the ceremony.

    Reply
  74. Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn’t held to those rules—but i didn’t realize they would wear black for the ceremony.

    Reply
  75. Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn’t held to those rules—but i didn’t realize they would wear black for the ceremony.

    Reply
  76. I don’t think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly — in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father’s death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
    As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.

    Reply
  77. I don’t think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly — in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father’s death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
    As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.

    Reply
  78. I don’t think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly — in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father’s death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
    As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.

    Reply
  79. I don’t think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly — in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father’s death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
    As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.

    Reply
  80. I don’t think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly — in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father’s death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
    As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.

    Reply
  81. True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
    All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.

    Reply
  82. True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
    All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.

    Reply
  83. True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
    All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.

    Reply
  84. True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
    All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.

    Reply
  85. True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
    All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.

    Reply
  86. That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.

    Reply
  87. That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.

    Reply
  88. That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.

    Reply
  89. That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.

    Reply
  90. That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.

    Reply
  91. On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush’s account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James’s and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
    Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh’s. “All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte.” (I believe he’s wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) “one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace.”
    Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
    There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.

    Reply
  92. On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush’s account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James’s and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
    Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh’s. “All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte.” (I believe he’s wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) “one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace.”
    Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
    There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.

    Reply
  93. On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush’s account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James’s and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
    Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh’s. “All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte.” (I believe he’s wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) “one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace.”
    Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
    There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.

    Reply
  94. On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush’s account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James’s and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
    Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh’s. “All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte.” (I believe he’s wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) “one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace.”
    Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
    There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.

    Reply
  95. On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush’s account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James’s and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
    Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh’s. “All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte.” (I believe he’s wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) “one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace.”
    Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
    There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.

    Reply
  96. What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That’s the color I use when I want -color.
    You’re totally right in this sentence –If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
    And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I’m talkink about 1980s.

    Reply
  97. What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That’s the color I use when I want -color.
    You’re totally right in this sentence –If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
    And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I’m talkink about 1980s.

    Reply
  98. What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That’s the color I use when I want -color.
    You’re totally right in this sentence –If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
    And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I’m talkink about 1980s.

    Reply
  99. What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That’s the color I use when I want -color.
    You’re totally right in this sentence –If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
    And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I’m talkink about 1980s.

    Reply
  100. What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That’s the color I use when I want -color.
    You’re totally right in this sentence –If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
    And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I’m talkink about 1980s.

    Reply
  101. Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don’t remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it’s considered as acceptable as black.

    Reply
  102. Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don’t remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it’s considered as acceptable as black.

    Reply
  103. Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don’t remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it’s considered as acceptable as black.

    Reply
  104. Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don’t remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it’s considered as acceptable as black.

    Reply
  105. Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don’t remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it’s considered as acceptable as black.

    Reply
  106. My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was “the little dark foreign girl” in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
    Like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.

    Reply
  107. My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was “the little dark foreign girl” in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
    Like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.

    Reply
  108. My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was “the little dark foreign girl” in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
    Like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.

    Reply
  109. My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was “the little dark foreign girl” in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
    Like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.

    Reply
  110. My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was “the little dark foreign girl” in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
    Like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.

    Reply
  111. I seem to recall–and it might have been set down after the Regency–a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don’t recall where I saw it.

    Reply
  112. I seem to recall–and it might have been set down after the Regency–a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don’t recall where I saw it.

    Reply
  113. I seem to recall–and it might have been set down after the Regency–a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don’t recall where I saw it.

    Reply
  114. I seem to recall–and it might have been set down after the Regency–a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don’t recall where I saw it.

    Reply
  115. I seem to recall–and it might have been set down after the Regency–a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don’t recall where I saw it.

    Reply
  116. In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one’s clothes with bright colored powders.
    Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes–and I don’t think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!

    Reply
  117. In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one’s clothes with bright colored powders.
    Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes–and I don’t think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!

    Reply
  118. In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one’s clothes with bright colored powders.
    Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes–and I don’t think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!

    Reply
  119. In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one’s clothes with bright colored powders.
    Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes–and I don’t think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!

    Reply
  120. In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one’s clothes with bright colored powders.
    Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes–and I don’t think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!

    Reply
  121. As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
    I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.

    Reply
  122. As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
    I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.

    Reply
  123. As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
    I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.

    Reply
  124. As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
    I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.

    Reply
  125. As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I’m great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
    I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.

    Reply
  126. I remember in “The Secret Garden,” Mary’s new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
    Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I’ve read. “The Grand Sophy,” perhaps?

    Reply
  127. I remember in “The Secret Garden,” Mary’s new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
    Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I’ve read. “The Grand Sophy,” perhaps?

    Reply
  128. I remember in “The Secret Garden,” Mary’s new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
    Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I’ve read. “The Grand Sophy,” perhaps?

    Reply
  129. I remember in “The Secret Garden,” Mary’s new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
    Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I’ve read. “The Grand Sophy,” perhaps?

    Reply
  130. I remember in “The Secret Garden,” Mary’s new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
    Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I’ve read. “The Grand Sophy,” perhaps?

    Reply

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